Boston Easter weekend - day 4 & day 5

A definite improvement in the weather: sunny and warm this Sunday morning; will reach the low sixties sometime today…

Easter day. Chat at the breakfast table with an older couple, in the publishing business, that drove from Connecticut to meet their son-in-law: their daughter, long-time resident of Boston, just got married! Had dinner at the same place last night…

Pascal mass at the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, with the cardinal himself! (Cardinal Seán Patrick O’Malley – Archbishop of Boston by virtue of John Paul II in 2003; Cardinal by virtue of Benedict XVI in 2006, one of the successors to illustrious Richard Cardinal Cushing that served during the Kennedys era…). The church happens to be in the neighborhood. Reminded of all the pageantry that goes with catholic liturgy, of which the burning incent (“l’encensoir”), and its smell, is most vivid in my mind!... Cardinal Seán’s sermon, about renewal in Christ…

Light lunch at Le Petit Robert, nearby, on Columbus. Great omelets; lousy wine!

Felt we needed to do the “Freedom Trail” – the historical part of any visit to Boston, the cradle of the American Revolution. Faneuil Hall, Paul Revere, and the rest… Not particularly interested today; so not particularly interesting… Way too many people, and too commercial, along the “trail”! The right weather though, except for a few grains of rain toward the end of the afternoon. Faneuil Hall below:

Dinner at Sorellina, Italian, on the recommendation of a diner at Hamersley’s the night before. Near Copley Place. 10 minute walk from the B&B. Very sophisticated and slick décor – one large diner area. Cynthia has the Insalata and the scallops with white asparagus and some truffle. She is happy with her Prosecco Extra Brut (Fantinel, Friuli, Italy). Very light for me: Romaine and half a portion of pasta – garganelli with succulent pioppini mushrooms, and a glass of a very smooth chardonnay (Nozzole `Le Bruniche` Chardonnay, Tuscany, 2008). Light rain coming out; walked home nonetheless.

Monday morning, Cynthia is returning to Toronto early in the day. I am staying for the conference. Early breakfast at “Charlie’s” across the road on Columbus; opens at 6am. Happens to be THE breakfast experience to have in Boston. An institution around here: this typical American diner has been around since 1927. Pictures on the wall; Al Gore –kid in arms – campaigning with Senator (Ted) Kennedy… Small place – “No parking after eating!” – very generous ham and cheese omelet for me, New England blueberry bread for Cynthia. All cash, no credit card. (PlayBook tablet frozen – no photos, if it had not been for Cy’s camera!...)

Took the morning to visit the JFK Library & Museum, a bit off the beaten track, by Dorchester Bay. The highlights of his career. His early life – how politics was not to be his “bag”; his decision to go into politics; his loss to be VP candidate in 1956; the 1960 campaign TV debates with Nixon – how TV gave him the edge; his inaugural speech (…”don’t ask…, but ask…”); “Camelot”; the race to the moon; his Berlin speech (“Let them come to Berlin!” addressing those who believed Communism was the answer, and his famous “Ish bin ein Berliner”)…and then the 22th of November, 1963… The rhetoric was inspiring, up-lifting…it was so for a whole generation – mine. That is why we – same generation – may be so disillusioned by politics nowadays… I wonder if the flame I saw in 1964 on his tomb in Arlington cemetery is still burning…

Off to the conference – “Rethink Music” – for the rest of my stay in Boston…

Boston Easter weekend - day 3

Weather forecast today: Rain. Patchy fog this afternoon. Highs around 50. Southeast winds 15 to 20 mph. Gusts up to 30 mph...increasing to 40 mph this afternoon. Chance of rain near 100 percent. Tonight: Cloudy. Patchy fog. Showers likely in the evening. Not as cool with lows around 50. Southwest winds 15 to 20 mph. Chance of rain 60 percent.

It rained alright, all day! Taxi to the Museum of Fine Arts. Extraordinary exhibition of Chihuly’s most recent work (glassware). Incredible in its forms and its colors. Phenomenally good pictures with my new Blackberry tablet, the PlayBook. Hopefully their clarity and quality will be preserved once transferred to PC, posted on Flickr or emailed… (see slideshow on MFA in case http://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/chihuly)

A look at Sargent’s The work as well, in permanent exhibition at the Art of The Americas section: The connection to Isabella Stewart Gardner, his Velazquez-like rendering of a family scene, his fresco that adorns the walls and ceiling of the museum’s Rotunda, etc.

http://www.artchive.com/artchive/S/sargent/sargent_daughters.jpg.html

Taxi back in South End for lunch on oysters – 8 of them, most from East Coast, 2 from the Pacific Coast. With a glass of Crémant for Cynthia and a glass of Muscat d’Alsace for me. At B&G Oysters on Tremont, a rather tight place at the rez-de-chaussée level, particularly welcoming. Cynthia’s New England clam chowder is simply divine!

Spent the afternoon at the B&B, sheltered from the rain! Ditched plans to go to restaurant (Harvest) in Cambridge and Donkey Show, in favor of nearby Hamersley’s Bistro, a well known choice of French fare (http://www.hamersleysbistro.com); entrée of crispy canard confit, followed by grilled chicken (the best Cynthia ever had, she says) and pork tenderloin in a burnt orange sauce, with a glass of Chilean Pinot Noir (Ritual 2008) for Cynthia, and of Saint-Estèphe, Chateau Haut-Beauséjour, 2005, a combination of Cabernet Franc, Merlot et Cabernet Sauvignon, for me. Highly recommendable (and obviously well frequented – fully booked; reservations were for the day after; lucky to scrap a table by the bar – as it turns out a much quieter section of the restaurant...)

The Bruins beat the Habs 2 to 1 in double overtime – the Bruins lead this playoff series now 3 to 2 games…could not get tickets, and doubt I would be able to get any for next game, which may turn out to be the last one of that series if the Bruins win!

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Boston Easter weekend - day 2

I check the Boston Globe for the weather later on today, Friday; it’s 38 degrees right now at 6am, and it’s going to be mostly sunny, patchy frost this morning, highs in the low 50s, north winds 5 to 10mph…becoming east this afternoon. In other words, pretty well the same as yesterday… The seven-day forecast has rain for the rest of the weekend; so better be ready…

I was curious about the Big Dig. It refers to the project to bury the freeway (the I-93) that used to cross and split Boston, before it was turned into a 3.5mile tunnel. Moshe Sadfie (who actually is now based here I think) referred to it in an article in the Globe & Mail a few weeks back, talking about the Gardiner elevated freeway that disfigured Toronto’s waterfront, wondering if it was not too late to think of dismembering it. The Big Dig started in the mid-80’s and was finally terminated at the very end of 2007 at a cost of some $22B, if you include the interest costs incurred according to the Boston Globe, many times over what was initially planned, apparently making it the most expensive transportation project ever in the US! It was marred by several incidents (including death) and led since to lawsuits for shoddy work on the part of the main contractor, a consortium I think of Bechtel and Parsons. As much as the Gardiner is an eyesore in Toronto, I think we should think twice before committing scarce resources to its replacement, when the city has so many other transportation needs to fulfill (e.g. a subway that would link the Bloor line to the North Work one, along Don Mills…the subway in Toronto is truly underdeveloped for a greater and spread out area of some 5 to 7 million people…)

Spent the morning at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, where we got a private tour from a staffer (Natalie Williams – Board Relations manager), courtesy of our local Greek connection! Quite a museum, quite a woman! She built that museum – the inner courtyard is faced on each side by a replica of a Venetian palace’s facade – to lodge her private collection that developed over the years to be a true professional one. This is in the 1890’s! With her wealthy father’s inheritance she bought oeuvres d’art in Europe and elsewhere, and with her rich (needless to say!) Bostonian husband’s inheritance she built the museum. Then there is the story of the heist, 11 paintings stolen in 1990 worth some $330M! (The stolen artworks include The Concert by Vermeer (one of only 34 known works by Vermeer in the world), three works by Rembrandt including The Storm on the Sea of Galilee (the artist’s only known seascape) and a postage-stamp-sized Self-Portrait, five drawings by Degas, Chez Tortoni by Manet, a landscape painting formerly attributed to Rembrandt, and two objects, an ancient Chinese Ku and a finial in the shape of an eagle from a Napoleonic flag – as reported on Wikipedia) Never found so far. Prosecution period is over, if the culprits are ever found. The lesson learned at the Museum from that incident: insure artworks, at least the insurance company would pay for the investigation! Here is a young Rembrandt (FOOTNOTE June 18, 2013)

“The Passion according to St-John”, by J.S. Bach. At the Symphony Hall, with the Boston Orchestra, directed by Masaaki Suzuki, known as a “Bach specialist” (with a little introductory comment to remind us of the disaster in Japan, a solicitation for donation, and a minute of silence). Quite fitting, on Good Friday matinee. Tough first part – I slept through most of it – but stayed for the second one, at the insistence of Cynthia. Quite rightly - did not regret it… This “BSO Revival of ‘St-John’” was rather poorly rated that morning in the Boston Globe, as “unsteady”; perhaps for the critique, but exhilarating for us… (Said hello and congratulations to Suzuki-san, met by chance that same night…)

Dinner at zagat-rated Toscano, a gracieusté of our local Greek connection, Nicolas Mitropolis, an old friend and “habitué de la maison”. Great place on Charles Street, in Beacon Hill; busy northern Italian eatery. Greeted by managing partners Andrew and Richard. A glass of “frizzante” Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noir for Cynthia, and Toscan white Vermentino Rocca di Mentemassi Calasole 2008 for me. Calamari in gratella – a recommendation from Andrew – plain full “rouleaux” of squid, grilled served with a Dijon mustard sauce (extra peppery sauce for Cynthia’s South-Asian palate!) For pasta, we shared a “plat” of pappardelle served with a braised duck sauce, accompanied by a generous glass of soft “rosso” Turlo di Sylviano (a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot), which was to last long enough to go with our main dish, a lemony (too lemony?) sea bass for Cynthia, and a blackened cod (“Merluzzo in Acquapazza”) served in a sauce just right for this tasty fish, and a mountain of Baby Peas. Could not resist their tiramisu, with coffee. Delightful evening…and we certainly need the half-hour walk, back to our B&B in the South End!

Friday, April 22, 2011

FOOTNOTE -June 18, 2013
In an article by its editor/publisher, the magazine ARTnews, in its June, 2013 issue reports on the state of the investigation, by the FBI and others, that is still going on...with so far more than 10,000 tips, going from Jackie Kennedy's involvement to that of Brad Pitt !

Boston Easter Weekend - day 1

Staying at Clarendon Square Inn, “Boston’s most scenic small hotel and the only place to stay in the heart of the hip South End area” as the Wallpaper city guide puts it. It certainly feels comfortable in this Victorian home, fully renovated with all the modern amenities (wireless, flat screen TV, etc.). (Writing now, sitting in the very inviting lounge on the first floor, fireplace, “piano à queue” and all!) We are on the top floor (if one does not mind 3 flights of stairs), room number 3, a floor away from the roof top we went to, from where one has a great panorama view of the neighborhood and beyond. This is where the hot tub is, fully operational at this cool time of the year…

Planning made easy, thanks to Nicolas Mitropolis, “Boston Greek connection extraordinaire”, Cynthia met on the last leg of a flight to Athens earlier this year…a very attentive and generous connection indeed! We practically only have to show up!

Sunny, but cool it is… And that wind – wow! We asked if it is like this all the time…we were admitted that it is today a bit more windy than usual! No kidding! And yet, there are people going around in t-shirt and shorts! It is spring, trees budding green, but we are glad we brought along warm scarves, and I regret a hat…

Enjoyed food today: lunch at Aquitaine (www.aquitaineboston.com), a bistro-style establishment in the ‘hip’ South end, a few blocks away from the B&B; part of what was an old (“the first one” according to the manager there) French hotel, the St-Cloud. Roasted Arctic Char on a bed of fresh greens and a croque-monsieur (with a light tomato bisque and fries), with a delicious white wine from the Languedoc. Very good coffee too…

Then Scampo (www.scampoboston.com), an Italian establishment on the first floor of the very touted Liberty Hotel, the former Boston jail that has been “refurbished” in a very hip hotel a few years ago, at the cost of more than $100M! Restaurant full of smart looking diners…had the baked artichoke (with sausage crumbs) for entrée – had not had artichokes for years – and shared the “Bianco” pizza (white asparagus, with dollops of mozzarella in cream, and a touch of honey). Good Pinot Noir from the Veneto.

Walked back to the B&B from dinner, a good half hour from Beacon Hill to South End. Quite invigorating in this cold wind. Had walked to the restaurant, going straight up Dartmouth Street to the river (Charles) looking for a place for jogging (there is a path along the river).
Thursday, April 21, 2011

Less than a week in East Asia – Taipei & Hong-Kong

Back in Asia, a quick business visit, Taipei, and then, almost unexpectedly, Hong-Kong.

Never enticed by Taipei, over several visits in the last 25 years. This time though, I find the city clean, less polluted, and certainly less encumbered by traffic – it’s almost Singapore! It seems to me that it is due to the fact that much of the construction that was going on in previous visits has abated – the subway is certainly completed!

Staying at the Sheraton Taipei, chosen by our hosts. Usual good large hotel chain standards. Had stayed before at the Hyatt, closer as I recall to the Trade Center and now the new city landmark – Taipei 101 – a structure of 101 floors, reminiscent of an ancient pagoda. Remember also once staying at the Sherwood hotel – very comfortable.

Took a couple of hours to spend at the National Palace Museum. Probably the largest repository of Chinese artefacts in the world. Built in the 60’s to lodge what the Nationalists had managed to ship outside of the mainland in 1949, probably starting not long after the war was over. The collection from the Forbidden City actually had been “on the road” already for a good 15 years, having been packed away first to avoid the avatars of the civil war and of the Japanese invasion. A long itinerary starting in Beijing, then Shanghai, Nanjing, scattered somewhere further west in Sichuan, Chungqing, reassembled back east in Nanjing, to eventually finds its way to Taiwan. Fascinating collection – by far the most extensive I have ever seen. I go back every time I come to Taipei. Such a trove to discover.

Had lunch at the Silks Palace on the ground of the Museum, not knowing that our hosts was going to take us there for dinner the day after…

Invited a few colleagues for dinner at the Grand Hotel, built in the early 50’s, in the pure grandiose traditional Chinese – majestic lobby, lots of reds and marble. A sight to see; the restaurant, the Golden Dragon, is overseeing the Danshui River, nearby. The food of course is rather mediocre (and the wine selection awfully limited!) Would have dined better at the Din Tai Fung on xiaolungbao! Well, I knew I was not coming for the food…

The Grand Hotel, a Taipei landmark, is built on a hilltop in traditional Chinese palace architecture. With the largest Chinese classical style roof in the world, vermilion pillars, stately archways, and brilliant roof tiles, it is quite spectacular. First built in 1952, it underwent many additions and expansions until its completion in 1973. After a disastrous fire in 1995, the hotel was repaired, and reopened to the public in 1998.
SOURCE: Xiao-Si Huang, courtesy of Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation & Communications , R.O.C.

Above picture of Grand Hotel lobby, taken by Taiwan Junior, reproduced here under a CC license.

Flew to Hong-Kong for more meetings. On Cathay Pacific – always a pleasure to fly on their wings, even if it is a short flight. Staying at a new place, a boutique hotel in Wanchai – The Fleming. Brand new, roomy quarters, rather slick. Would stay again…amidst the “humanity” of Wanchai – such dense crowd. Gentrifying at the west end of the area, off the Admiralty –new high rises, bars and restaurants. Had a glass of wine in the area with Ted.

Remarkable dinner at the 8 1/2 Otto y mezzo restaurant (apparently would have just got its second Michelin Star), at the invitation of Bernard, an old French Canadian friend, there since the late 70’s when I came first in hong-Kong to live(there is a story here!) Joined a party of some 25 of their friends and business contacts to sample the food of “chef invité” Normand Laprise, from the very hip and fashionable Montréal restaurant “Toqué!”, well wine-paired by the local sommelier. Long conversation with chef Laprise…

Coincidence, dinner with old British friends (second tour of duty - mid 90’s - vintage!) at the same venue as we had the last time, a few years back, the LRC (Ladies Recreational Center), on Old Peak Road, across from where I lived some 30 years ago! For the same reason: a wine degustation, from Lebanon this time – Chateau Musar - with the patriarch, Serge, in attendance!