New York City - 2 or 3 days in November 2012 -2

Took the bus (one hour+, on M4 bus which I caught at Lexington and 83rd Street) to The Cloisters, a fortress-like branch of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, way up north of Manhattan island – it's located in the gardens of Fort Tryon Park. Specialized in art and architecture (both religious and secular domestic) of medieval Europe (12th to 15th centuries). Fascinating! Always wanted to visit, but never enough time to make the trek out there (came back by much faster subway though!)

Had lunch in the leafy park – many paths closed because of the damage caused by the infamous storm Sandy the week before – at “the new leaf” restaurant, a short walk (which ‘they” did not want to allow me to take, but which I did anyway!) from the museum; a Ceasar Salad and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc – quite “civilized”…and as it turned out highly recommended (Guide Michelin, Zagat, etc…)

Crossed “Central Park” on my way back – beautiful day if a little chilly, which does not stop kids from running and playing around…a great initiative, this park, the ‘lung’ of New York, as it has been described so often…

Stopped by the MET; wanted to see their current exhibition of Bernini’s clays, in preparation for our upcoming visit of Rome…wondered about in the galleries – found fascinating a late 19th century marble sculpture, Sappho by the Comte Prosper d’Epinay (see picture).

Ended up in the Islamic Art section, opened the year before: quite a prologue to what is being promised at the Agha Khan museum in construction in Toronto…not to be missed is ‘the Damascus Room”, the reception room of an 18th century upper-class Syrian home, during the ottoman period – a gift from the famous collector and benefactor Hagop Kevorkian, restored and re-installed only 2 years ago! Bought the latest edition of the museum guide…and joined as an Associate Member, to the end of 2013 – might as well as half the price (US$60) already covered (and credited!) by entrance fee today!

Attended “The Tempest” at the famed MET Opera house; this is the 129th season of the Metropolitan Opera, now under the direction of General Manager Peter Gelb (since 2006; met him in Toronto last year – I had asked him then if he felt the showing of the MET’s operas at the cinema had “cannibalized” them and reduced attendance, as some feared – not at all and to the contrary, did he say, confirming a long contention of mine! “live in HD” – the series has sold more than ten million tickets since its inception in December 2006, now on some 1700 screens in 50 countries or more!) and maestro Levine (since 1976 for the latter!)

The Tempest is a modern opera, composed by Thomas Adès in 2004, who also conducted the orchestra today (he is also a concert pianist, nad performed as such I think). It is based on Shakespeare's: same story but (very) different text, modernized - libretto is by Meredith Oakes, an Australian. The production is by Robert Lepage - remarkable! in particular, his treatment of the choir. Actually, it's a co-production between the Met, l'Opéra de Québec and the Wiener Staatsoper in Vienna - my brother reminded me that it was played in Québec City last summer. I enjoyed, but not really until the 3rd and final act! Lunch at the opera house restaurant (the Grand Tier Restaurant) - actually not much of a choice if I wanted to check in my luggage then...another breakfast: egg benedict and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc!

Breakfast in eateries nearby troughout my stay - at a "Hot & Crispy", Zagat-rated (on Lexington) would you believe!

NYC – 2 or 3 days in November (2012) -1

First taste of snow this year… and it is happening in New York City! Clear skies in Toronto when I left; freak storm down south when I arrived! Left in places as much as 6 inches of the fluffy stuff on the ground…All melted away in hours in NYC…The rest of the time clear skies, if cold, but warming up quickly – in the low 60’s by the time I left!

Staying at 156, East 85th Street. Apt 1E; arranged through 9 flats. http://www.9flats.com/fr/places/39133-appartement-new_york-yorkville . Simple dinner at "Vespa" on arrival, an Italian restaurant nearby; a risotto and a glass of Sancerre.

MoMA is showing Munch’s “The Scream” (1895); one of the 4 versions made at the end of 19th century and the beginning of the 20th (the other 3 are in museums in Norway!), on loan for 6 months or so from a private collector. This is how the museum describes the painting: “A haunting rendition of a hairless figure on a bridge under a yellow-orange sky, The Scream has captured the popular imagination since the time of its making. The image was originally conceived by Munch as part of his epic Frieze of Life series, which explored the progression of modern life by focusing on the themes of love, angst, and death. Especially concerned with the expressive representation of emotions and personal relationships, Munch was associated with the international development of Symbolism during the 1890s and recognized as a precursor of 20th-century Expressionism”.

It’s interesting to see the name of “Marie-Josée and Henry Kravis”, associated to the painting – its installation, along of that of other works (prints) by Munch, is organized by the chief curator of their sponsored rooms of painting and sculpture at the MoMA. Marie-Josée…quite a history…(met her when she and then husband Charles Dutoit - celebrated director of Montreal’s symphony orchestra at the time – visited Shanghai in the 80s…) Wondered around the museum. Quite a collection – Picassos, Cézannes, Monets, and contemporary works (paintings, sculpture) by the thousands! Photography and films also. Well frequented – I suppose it is a must for anyone visiting NYC – lots of students. Lunch at the museum’s café, Terrace 5 – excellent! (Building also houses the Modern, another restaurant where we had meals back in 2009 – see blog’s entries then)

Dropped a few things at the nearby Rockefeller Center Post station, to mail to Laurence and Béatrice. The Center, and its famed skating ring, really appears as the “heart” of the city, at least for the visitor…

Dropped by the Asia Society’s headquarters, on the upper reaches of Park Avenue, on my way “home”. They also house a museum; Chinese artist Lin Tian Miao’s work, born in the 60s, is on show: quite unique – she made what she calls “thread winding” her “trademark”, so to speak. Her “Here? There?” piece, which she did for the 4th Shanghai Biennale, some 10 years ago, with her video artist husband, is stunning (picture below)! See article in last month edition of  NY-based magazine ARTnews, on Lin http://www.artnews.com/2012/10/08/wrap-artist/

Had more simple dinners at Bar Boulud – twice as a matter of fact – “iberico” ham one night; “proscutto” ham the other night; with ‘Magnum of the day” wine: a 2005 Côtes du Rhone the first night, and 1983 Bordeaux the second! Saw in nearby cinema “A Late Quartet” – quite moving, with Seymour-Hoffman, an aged and aging Christopher Walken, and 2 other protagonists (plus ‘the daughter”) – the péripéties and tensions in the life of the musicians of this string quartet…

NYC, November 10, 2012