Portugal: Sintra

Took the train (39 minutes) from Lisboa. It’s in the mountains (the smell of pines and cypresses in the cold air early in the morning, an “Alpine” touch!), and it is known as the center of romantic architecture in Europe, now a UNESCO World Heritage site; because of its various palaces built in the 19th century and of romantic (à la German) inspiration!

Especially the Palace of Pena, built on the very top of the highest escarpment – I climbed on foot to it, from Sintra, some 5 kilometers at least on a tortuous road! Built mostly by this romantic “artisty” Portuguese king, Fernando II, of Austro-German “descendance”. Extraordinary: it reminds me of the Rhine and Bavarian castles built during those days – same inspiration!

Had lunch at the Regional de Sintra restaurant (mushrooms à la Sintra; Sole Meunière; and somelocal white wine) before coming back to Lisboa by one of the frequent (every 15 minutes at that time of the day) trains.



Lisbon, February 15, 2013

Lisbon, Portugal : Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

Gulbenkian peu avant 1900.

Calouste Gulbenkian, a discovery! He was Armenian; made his money in the oil industry (he was known as “Mr. 5 per Cent”) because that is how much he owned of the Turkish Petroleum Company which he had created with a few friends. His fortune allowed him to collect – a passion of his – through his life. When he died in 1955 – he had moved to Lisbon in the 40’s; no doubt that the city and its river reminded him of his youth’s Istanbul! – his art collection (and fortune) went to the Foundation he had set up before, and shortly after his death, the decision was made to lodge the collection in a new museum which was inaugurated in 1969. I must admit. I did not know Gulbenkian, a much more discreet tycoon than the Americans Howard Hughes or John D. Rockefeller! (See the book published by the Foundation in 2012 on Gulbenkian, The man and his Work).

It’s quite an eclectic collection! – ranging from early Egyptian and Greek artifacts to Lallique’s jewelry, and it includes considerable works from Islamic (mainly Turkish) origin as well as from the Orient (Japan and China); not to mention the enormous collection of western paintings (several depicting Venice, by Corot and Sargent among others; of note equally, Turner and a series of 18th and19th century French painters e.g. Fragonard – see the little booklet entitled The Director’s Choice published in 2011).

And the admirable surrounding gardens (quite fitting considering Gulbenkian's love for nature)...

Could not resist, and got for Cynthia the catalogue of an exhibition that took place in 2006 at the museum on the “Art of the Book”, entitled “From Paris to Tokyo” – she is such a “lover” of books!

(Writing this while listening/watching a DVD on Mariza Terra, singing Fado songs in concert – an obviously well celebrated Portuguese singer – blond, very thin and tall!

Lisboa, February 14, 2013

Lisbon, Portugal; February 2013

Arrived on the Sunday (February 10, 2013); staying in town at the Bairro Alto Hotel (recommended by i-escape and reviewed, along with other sites and restaurants, on Trip Advisor). I left Toronto the night before with a delay of more than one hour, which meant missing my connection in Munich; fortunately there was a flight to Lisbon shortly after on TPA559. Rested for an hour or so before a business dinner at the hotel restaurant, the Flores.

Early up on Monday morning, and after some work and a copious petit déjeuner at the hotel, took the fabled Tram 28, just in front of the hotel, to ramble up to Graça through Bairro Alto, Chiado, Baixa and finally Alfama neighbourhoods.. Hilly Lisboa! Walked down to the castle – Castelo de Sâo Jorge. It dominates that part of Lisbon. Built on a hill (as it has to!) by the Moors in the middle of the 11th Century, it was taken over by the Christians about 100 years later (1147) – Royalty would have stayed there starting from the 14th century to the 1700s. It’s a landmark that is very much part of the history of the city and the country! Ventured about the castle – on its ramparts as well as its gardens, providing a magnificent view over the older Lisbon, as well as the imposing and wide Tagus River (Rio Tejo) – and the immense ‘Golden Gate’ suspended bridge, built in the late 60s.

Stopped by the gift shop to pick up a CD by what I am told is an emblematic local singer of the 60s, Amalia Rodrigues. Got also the address of a bookshop where to get a guide book by the famous national poet, Fernando Pessoa, Lisboa, what the tourist should see, probably written in 1925, and published posthumously. (Went to pick it up at the bookshop – Ler Devagar – in the Lx Factory compound that afternoon, only to go and find out that it is closed on Mondays; finally got a copy at Bertrand, near the hotel!)

Walked all the way down, stopping at Lisbon Sé (cathedral), built in the 12th century by the crusaders who took over the mosque that the Moors had erected there. (Walked around the nef; there is a cloister at the back which I did not go to.) Monumental!

Carried on to Augusta Street, one of the grid-like streets of Baixa, that gives, through a monumental archway, to the immense Praça do Comercio – by then it is raining slightly. Walked along Rua do Arsenal back to the Chiado neighbourhood for lunch at Largo along Rua Serpa Pinto. (After lunch, went across the street at the Teatro National de Sâo Carlos, on Largo de Sâo Carlos, to pick-up my ticket for the 20th anniversary performance of Portugal’s Symphony later on that week). Had a digestive coffee on the way back at the more than centenary coffee house of A Brazileira on Garret Street just as it merges into Largo do Chiado, adjacent to Praça Luis de Camoes, where the hotel is. Afternoon: time to go to work…Hosting dinner that night for colleagues, at Bica do Sapato, a very large restaurant that gives straight on the river.

On my way to work, stopped to visit the eclectic and considerable Museu Calouste Gelbenkian, an assemblage of Gulbenkian’s private collection - phenomenal (see separate blog entry)! Took advantage of a day off to go to Sintra, about 30 KMs away from Lisboa, by train (see separate blog entry).

Walked late afternoon down from Bairro Alto to the river (via the adjacent Rua do Alecrim – a few book antiquaries on the way). Demonstration across the hotel – the Ministry of Economy is nearby; (very loud) music and leftist songs dating back to the 1974 “revolution”. Reforms - read prices going up while the economy is not doing too well! Lots of work (renovation; “revitalization”) going on along the Teju – it’s enormously wide, at least at Lisbon’s height! Plaça do Comercio in the dying sun by a very clear day! The equestrian statue in the centre and the immense arch giving to the square by Rua Augusta, mostly under cover (being renovated). Wondered in the streets of Baixa, and found my way back through Chiado to Praça Luis de Camoes on the heart of Bairro Alto.

Concert tonight, at the nearby Teatro National de Sâo Carlos, in celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Portugal Symphony – better rest a little bit before!

(i.e. l’ensemble des cuivres et percussions de l’Orchestre Symphonique du Portugal ( l’OSP) sous la direction de Pedro Neves: un programme plutôt ‘dramatique’ – la Suite de Carmen; le Boléro; «An American in Paris»; quelques morceaux de Wagner, et puis pour finir «Malaguena»!...en plus d’une oeuvre de Aaron Copland – Fanfare for the Common Man – qui ressemble à une ouverture de Jeux Olympiques!)

"...et vous êtes passée, demoiselle inconnue, à deux doigts d'être nue, sous le lin qui dansait..." Jacques Brel

Lisboa, February 15, 2013