dimanche 11 mai 2008

Un long week-end à New-York - mai 2008






















Un long week-end à New-York

3 jours d’activités culturelles à New-York ; une tradition? Suffirait-il de 2 fois en 2 ans ? Et pour voir les filles et Eric.

30 avril.
Sommes descendus à l’hôtel the Pod, sur la 51e entre la 2e et la 3e ; l’ancien Pickwick Arms, apprend-on, sérieusement retappé. Dans le cœur du mid-town, côté est. Compact, très hip – haute vitesse sans fil, téléviseur écran plat, « iPod craddle ». Chambre lit double ; ne fait pas plus de 12’ par 12’. Salle de bain très étudiée dans l’art de l’aménagement de l’espace ! Douche, genre pluie douce. Somme toute, çà rencontre nos besoins, étant donné la proximité relative des théâtres…et le prix des hôtels à New-York…
http://www.thepodhotel.com/

Dîner au chic et hip DB Bistro Moderne, avec André et France.
http://danielnyc.com/dbbistro/


1er mai.
Après une journée de travail pour moi, retrouvons les filles et Eric en soirée, pour un verre et une bouchée; aboutissons dans un bar sushi, un de ceux-là très nombreux dans Manhattan.


2 mai.
Visite au Neue Galerie Museum, Klimt

A good look at the “portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer”, the original, in this museum since last year. This painting, as I understand it, had a long history and voyage. Commissioned first by the Jewish family Block-Bauer in Vienna at the turn of the century, it was stolen by the Nazis at the time of the Anschluss in 1938; then restituted to the Austrian Government after the war. It is then when the heirs to the family went after the government in courts to get its property back, to succeed only in 2006, at which time Adele’s heirs sold it to Ronald Lauder (for a reported US$135M!), one of the 2 founders of the Neue Galerie. (pour plus:
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portrait_dI)

Well-worth seeing, along with the whole exhibition, rather small in terms of paintings (only 8) but lots of drawings and vignettes of Klimt’s history, including a reproduction of paintings he made to celebrate the 4th movement of Beethoven 9th symphony, which was prepared for an exhibition of the Succession Group in Vienna, and that were save when transferred to adorn the large living room of an industrialist’s home in Belgium! Klimt is all about women and clothing (with jewelry, a good sample of them are in the adjoining exhibition, the “Wiener Werkstatte Jewelry” see below the exhibition’s description). His drawings, mostly croquis in preparation for paintings, are very explicit, putting in evidence the pelvis region of the body… More on Klimt at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gustav_Klimt

Klimt is at the center of this intense period known as “Turn-of-the century Vienna”, a time when converged in Vienna several cultural, social and intellectual currents that were to mark the rest of the century: Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and others around the Secession Group for painting; Gustav Mahler for music; Adolf Loos and Josef Hoffmann for architecture, Sigmund Freud, Alfred Adler for psychology, Ludwig Wittgenstein for philosophy (neo-positivism), and Josef Popper for social theory (utopia). Inspired me to buy “Vienna 1900” book, a collection of essays on the period by Austrian and German scholars, well illustrated.

From Neue Galerie’s website
http://www.neuegalerie.org/main.html?langkey=english:

GUSTAV KLIMT: THE RONALD S. LAUDER AND SERGE SABARSKY COLLECTIONSOctober 18, 2007 - June 30, 2008
On October 18, the Neue Galerie New York opens “Gustav Klimt: The Ronald S. Lauder and Serge Sabarsky Collections,” with eight paintings and more than 120 drawings by the controversial artist, on view together for the first time. The exhibition will also feature a reconstruction, with original furnishings, of the receiving parlor from the second Klimt studio. “Gustav Klimt” unites the collections of Ronald Lauder and Serge Sabarsky, co-founders of the Neue Galerie, and will fill all the gallery spaces in the museum. Together their collections comprise the finest gathering of works by Klimt in the United States. The exhibition is organized by Renée Price, Director of the Neue Galerie. This is its sole venue, where it will be on view through June 30, 2008.
“Gustav Klimt is an artist of paramount importance in the development of modern art,” said Ronald S. Lauder, President of the Neue Galerie. “He is central to our museum’s collection and mission.”
“Klimt’s work embodies the quintessence of fin de siècle Vienna: its richness, its sensuality, and its capacity for innovation,” said Renée Price, Director of the Neue Galerie. “It is a tremendous honor to present this remarkable exhibition at the Neue Galerie, which has become the premiere destination outside of Austria for admirers of the art created by this complex and very private man.”
This exhibition is the first museum retrospective of the work of Gustav Klimt ever held in the United States. Klimt was little known in the United States during the first half of the twentieth century. In the decades immediately following his death, there was virtually no American interest in the artist. His reputation gradually began to grow in the 1960s, with Klimt eventually reaching cult status. Today, he is internationally recognized as a major figure of twentieth-century art.
Besides paintings and drawings, the exhibition will contain rare vintage documentary material, ranging from letters, photographs, and personal effects, such as the artist’s cufflinks and seal (both designed by the architect Josef Hoffmann), to the only known surviving example of the painting smock that Klimt wore.
As a special addition to the exhibition, the Neue Galerie is presenting the re-created interior—based on original floor plans and a 1912 photograph—of the receiving room from Klimt’s studio at Josefstädter Strasse 21, Vienna, which was occupied by the artist from 1892 until the summer of 1912. The display includes the original furnishings designed by Josef Hoffmann, executed by the Wiener Werkstätte, and generously loaned from the collection of Ernst Ploil, Vienna. The installation will be accompanied by period music, including works by Beethoven, Brahms, and Schubert that Klimt was known to have admired…

WIENER WERKSTÄTTE JEWELRYMarch 27 - September 1, 2008
On March 27, 2008, the Neue Galerie opens “Wiener Werkstätte Jewelry,” with more than forty precious objects drawn from public and private collections. The exhibition will highlight masterpieces created by the Wiener Werkstätte between the firm’s inception in 1903 and 1920. It will feature significant pieces by Josef Hoffmann, Koloman Moser, Carl Otto Czeschka, and Dagobert Peche, among others. Supplemental materials will include design drawings and photographs of prominent clients, with an emphasis on fashion designer Emilie Flöge, confidante of Gustav Klimt, who assembled a large collection of Wiener Werkstätte jewelry.
The exhibition is organized by Janis Staggs, Assistant Curator, Neue Galerie New York. It will be on view at the Neue Galerie through September 1, 2008. Additional venues will be announced.
The Wiener Werkstätte, or Vienna Workshops, was established in 1903. The firm’s artistic co-founders—Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser—subscribed to the English Arts and Crafts ideal of exceptionally well-made objects designed by artists and executed by specialized craftsmen. Jewelry was among the first objects produced by the firm. Following the example of near contemporaries René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany, Hoffmann and Moser shared the belief that jewelry should be valued for its artistic merit and not simply for its monetary value…

Lunch at the Balcony Café, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Glimpse at Courbet, the same retrospective I had seen in Paris last year, with the iconic “l’origine du monde” painting… (See blog October 2007 – Un week-end à Paris)

Theater
August: Osage County
Music Box Theatre

Description
Tracy Letts’s scorchingly funny play is the dysfunctional-family drama supersized: a hideous, bulging scrapbook of misery, grudge-holding and poisoned heritage. The work’s three acts possess the heft and weave of lifetimes, but are leavened by the author’s dark humor and fondness for pulpy flourishes. The result is a tremendous achievement in American playwriting, a tragicomic populist portrait of a tough land and its tougher people. Deanna Dunagan is delectably bilious as the drug-addled, splenetic matriarch. And the entire Steppenwolf Theatre Company cast shines in Anna D. Shapiro’s whip-smart, rollicking production. Winner of the 2008 Pulitzer Prize for Drama.—David Cote (TimeOut NYC)

Description is right on! Intense, harsh, yet full of humoristic moments, if not for the extreme situations that are led to! 3h25min – leaves you psychologically exhausted.


3 mai
Visites de musées continue; avec Laurence, Eric et Dominique.
D’abord les japonais au Brooklyn Museum of Art. Les prints de l’école Utagawa, fin XVIIIe, jusqu’au début XXe. Puis, l’attraction du jour : Takashi Muratami. Chose assez inusité : Une boutique de Louis Vitton, dont la marque de commerce est associée à certaines créations de Muratami, fait partie intégrante de l’exposition !


Extraits du site du musée:
Utagawa: Masters of the Japanese Print, 1770–1900 presents more than seventy prints from the renowned Van Vleck collection of Japanese woodblock prints at the Chazen Museum of Art, University of Wisconsin–Madison and approximately twenty prints from the Brooklyn Museum. The Utagawa School, founded by Utagawa Toyoharu, dominated the Japanese print market in the nineteenth century and is responsible for more than half of all surviving ukiyo-e prints, or “pictures of the floating world.” Colorful, technically innovative, and sometimes defiant of government regulations, these prints were created for a popular audience and documented the pleasures of urban life and leisure. The prints represent famous places, landscapes, warriors, and kabuki actors; they were reproduced in books, posters, and other printed materials for mass consumption, and they fed a thriving Edo publishing industry.

Murakami: The most comprehensive retrospective to date of the work of internationally acclaimed Japanese artist Takashi Murakami includes more than ninety works in various media that span the artist’s entire career, installed in more than 18,500 square feet of gallery space.
Born in Tokyo in 1962, Murakami is one of the most influential and acclaimed artists to have emerged from Asia in the late twentieth century, creating a wide-ranging body of work that consciously bridges fine art, design, animation, fashion, and popular culture. He received a Ph.D. from the prestigious Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music, where he was trained in the school of traditional Japanese painting known as Nihonga, a nineteenth-century mixture of Western and Eastern styles. However, the prevailing popularity of anime (animation) and manga (comic books) directed his interest toward the art of animation because, as he has said, “it was more representative of modern day Japanese life.” American popular culture in the form of animation, comics, and fashion are among the influences on his work, which includes painting, sculpture, installation, and animation, as well as a wide range of collectibles, multiples, and commercial products.

The exhibition © MURAKAMI explores the self-reflexive nature of Murakami’s oeuvre by focusing on earlier work produced between 1992 and 2000 in which the artist attempts to explore his own reality through an investigation of branding and identity, as well as through self-portraiture created since 2000. Two works examining these subjects were a part of a group show, My Reality: Contemporary Art and the Culture of Japanese Animation, presented at the Brooklyn Museum in 2001.

Among the works included in this large-scale survey tracing the trajectory of Murakami’s artistic development are many of his acclaimed sculpture figures including the 23-foot-high Tongari-kun (2003–4); Miss Ko2 (1997), a long-legged waitress who has become one of the artist’s signature characters; and Hiropon (1997), a Japanese girl jumping a rope created by milk spurting from her gargantuan breasts. Among the paintings on view will be Tan Tan Bo (2001), as well as Tan Tan Bo Puking—a.k.a. Gero Tan (2002).

Puis visite au PS1, une succursale du MoMA située dans le Queens. Place d’abord à une rétrospective de l’art féministe des années 60 et 70 (on a fait un bout de chemin depuis !) et puis du finlandais

Extraits du site du musée :
WACK!: Art and the Feminist Revolution
Opening February 17, 2008 through May 12, 2008
P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center presents WACK! Art and the Feminist Revolution, the first comprehensive, historical exhibition to examine the international foundations and legacy of feminist art. Organized by MOCA Ahmanson Curatorial Fellow Connie Butler for The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles, WACK! focuses on the crucial period of the 1970s, during which the majority of feminist activism and artmaking occurred internationally. Praising the exhibition, P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center Director Alanna Heiss notes: "In addition to exploring international occurrences of feminist art, the show emphasizes New York's role in the movement, as well as its relationship with each artist involved. This is a particularly happy coincidence for P.S.1, as Connie Butler, the curator of WACK! in Los Angeles, has since last year joined the staff at the Museum of Modern Art, and will work on the very special installation of the exhibition with P.S.1 Director of Operations and Exhibitions Design Antoine Guerrero". This exhibition will be displayed on the entire First and Second Floors, and in the Third Floor Main Gallery from February 17, 2008 through May 12, 2008.
The exhibition spans the period of 1965 to 1980 and includes 120 artists and artist groups from the United States, Central and Eastern Europe, Latin America, Asia, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. WACK! includes work by women who operated within the political structure of feminism as well as women who did not necessarily embrace feminism as part of their practice, but were impacted by the movement. Comprising work in a broad range of media—including painting, sculpture, photography, film, video, and performance art—the exhibition is organized around themes based on media, geography, formal concerns, collective aesthetic, and political impulses. The exhibition is accompanied by a fully illustrated catalogue.


Drinks au bar de l’hôtel Roosevelt (Madison et 45e) avec les enfants, et puis place au théâtre :

Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
Broadhurst Theatre
Description
The historic, all-black revival of Tennessee Williams’s 1955 classic is a bona fide revelation. The A-list actors—Anika Noni Rose, Terrence Howard, James Earl Jones and Phylicia Rashad—fully inhabit the steamy, sexually repressed Southern milieu as if the parts were tailor-made for them. Film-star Howard is the weak link, but even his slack pace and lack of stage experience are ameliorated by passion and natural charisma. Director Debbie Allen’s production is a bit ham-fisted in the tacky sets and lights, but the superb cast is the reason to see it. It’s a masterpiece in which lying is a major theme, and we won’t see a truer version for a long time. Note: Through May 22, the role of Brick will be taken over by Boris Kodjoe. Howard returns on May 23.—DC (TimeOut NYC)
Toujours aussi intense. Interprétation magistrale de Jones, Rashad et Rose. Mandacity is the theme !

Dîner au Pigalle (8e et 48e); moules et vin d’Alsace (sauf pour Dominique qui tient bon à son sixième jour de faste !)


4 mai

Petit déjeuner chez Norma’s, au Méridien (6e et 57e) ; partie de la tradition (4e visite en un peu plus d’un an). ¾ heure d’attente !

Théâtre :
Spamalot
Shubert Theatre
Description
While undiscriminating Monty Python fans may thrill to hear reenactments of the troupe’s classic routines, its anarchic, zany spirit has been dulled and sweetened to make for commercial pliability. Despite Mike Nichols’s witty staging, Spamalot just isn’t as hilarious or daring as the material that inspired it.—DC (TimeOut NYC)
Une grosse farce populaire, qui attire une foule (90% féminine, ma foi, et tout en enbonpoint!) fervente de l’émission American Idol, dont le gagnant d’il y a quelques années, Aiken, en est une des vedettes qui se mérite d’ailleurs les applaudissements let les hurlements es plus tonitruants ! On ne nous y reprendra plus !
Un dernier verre sur la terrasse extérieure du Rockefeller Café, pour profiter des rayons déclinants d’un soleil qui ne fut de la partie que ce dimanche.
Vol sur Toronto à 20h30 (AC727)

samedi 12 avril 2008

Cannes, au printemps 2008

















De retour à Cannes. Ville mythique, en deçà de la réalité. Du sud de la France. Sur la Méditerranée. La Croisette. La retraite dorée; le yacht en rade. Le cinéma; les verres fumés des vedettes, le tapis rouge, les flashs des caméras. Brigitte Bardot en `58 – et Dieu créa la femme encore une fois…Palmiers le long de la rue. La musique – MIDEM. Les prix sur-gonflés au temps des festivals et marchés. La demi-pizza à vingt piasses. La dame toute bronzée et ridée, dans son léotard aux taches de léopard, avec son caniche tout blanc pour compléter le portrait. Cartier au coin du Carlton. Le déjeuner sur la plage, à la Plage Royale. Le garçon de table débordé et qui s’en fiche. La bouteille de Sancerre. Les 15 mille participants au MIPTV. L’excursion à l’île de Lérins, monastère ignoré des festivaliers. Le dîner traditionnel au Relais des Semailles. La pluie fine quand on attend le soleil. La conférence, dans le rouge et le noir. Cokes et ses clins d’œil et remarques salées, qu’on réinvite chaque année. Le portable, à l’oreille de tout le monde. Et la vidéo qui n’en finit pas de changer, au gré du numérique. Des gens qui se retrouvent sur la tribune qui n’auraient jamais pensé s’y trouver tellement ils faisaient partie d’un autre monde sans connexion à celui de la culture – le CEO qui y vient, entraîné par sa cohorte de visionnaires. Le stand de Nokia. Le champagne aux réceptions d’ouverture, pour ceux qui ne sont pas invités ailleurs. La badge au cou. L’échange furtif, une remarque sur la futilité de l’événement; l’étonnement du nouveau venu; la boutade blasée de ceux qui y étaient avant le nouveau Palais. Les confidences, les souvenirs partagés. « Et puis ce n’est plus ce que c’était – l’industrie est en déclin ». Les Chinois qui débarquent, avec leur maotai, servi côte à côte avec le « bubbly ». Le croissant et café au lait du matin chez Lalu, avec Lalu. Le petit déjeuner continental au Majestic à $50. Les mêmes visages chaque année, ce pourquoi on y retourne chaque année. La balade dans le Souquet en soirée – la tour éclairée. Le jambon-fromage au comptoir, entre deux rendez-vous. L’attente devant le Palais, aux éclats de rire « en can » de Just for Laughs, tournés dans les rues de Montréal. Le cigare au bar du Carlton, le cognac…la femme qui vous sourit, qui repart pour les Etats-Unis le lendemain, qui vous donne ses coordonnées inutilement. Ville démystifiée, qui offre beaucoup plus qu’elle en a l’air. L’avion qui me ramène chez moi, par Londres, par Heathrow détesté, au 5 terminaux sans fin. Toronto et la 401…

Le 12 avril 2008

mardi 18 mars 2008

Berlin, again...











March 18, 2008
Berlin, again...

Looking at the KaDeWe department store from GEMA’s terrasse. Went at lunch. Massive store, the largest in Europe they say, 100 years old last year. Wondered about, mostly on the 5th floor, Arts & Entertainment. Special DVD display on von Karajan performing with the Berliner Philarmoniker (http://www.berliner-philharmoniker.de/en/home/) ; bought that of Beethoven’s 9 symphonies. Time to go back to work. Must come back to see the 6th floor, the Gourmet floor, which I am told has a food selection from all over the world, rival to London’s Harrod’s (see their website: http://www.kadewe-berlin.de/og6_engl.php)


Taking a couple of hours off “the agenda”

The sun is back. The daffodils and crocuses are out in the Tiergarten. On my way to an exhibition, “Mythos Germania”. Germany squaring off with its past. Enough time has passed that it can look at Hitler and the Nazi period without too much guilt. This is about Hitler’s folly of making Berlin the world’s capital – Germania! His detailed plan to build a city at the hearth of the “thousand years”’ empire. The Great Hall, that could hold 180,000 people, dominating a plaza that holds another million! At the head of the Great Road, larger than the Champs Elysés, bordered by ministries and public buildings, the design work of Albert Speer, a mere 32 years old. Vanished in the vagaries of war…Would have been spectacular, but at what humanitarian cost! Built on the back of Jews’ and others’ life. No “grandeur” is worth that price! The Fuhrer’s Chancellery, already built – which survived the bombardments and was only razed down in 1948 – was a sign of things to come. Lots of older Germans visiting that day; but also a few younger, much younger ones. Funny, and not a coincidence, that the exhibition hall is contiguous to the famous memorial to persecuted Jews. History is never far away, and it is a good thing, so that we can remember.

Walking back on my steps to the hotel along the Tiergarten, to the “Agenda”…

Press reports on Mythos Germania…
Adolf Hitler's plans to pack the centre of Berlin with huge squares and gigantic buildings are going on display at a new exhibition in the German capital. "Mythos Germania" is the name of the exhibition opening onSaturday (March 15) that features the detailed plans for bombastic architecture by Albert Speer. At the heart of the plans for over-dimensional structures was The Great Hall, a massive domed structure that would have been built on the spot where the Reichstag parliament building is located today. The Great Hall was going to be 290 meters high and the capacity of180,000 would have made it more than twice as large as the country's largest soccer stadium today. "It is like a theme running through his plans and those of architect, Speer. They wanted to chisel into stone their motto that 'the individual is small, alone he is meaningless, the state is everything', and that is what they wanted to show with these gigantic buildings," said Sascha Keil, one of the organizers, as he pointed to a replica of the massive structure that vaguely resembles St. Paul's Cathedral in London. The exhibition shows plans, architectural models and pictures of the planned city, which was designed to be a symbol of the German Reich's power. "I learned quite a lot of new things," said one visitor, Sascha Keil. "I didn't really know what 'Germania' meant before, and this hall, which you can see behind me, it's fascinating how big it is, how pompous. And you always think of bad things when you think of the Nazis-era, and it was all very terrible, but when you look at what they wanted to build, it is somehow impressive - and then you can understand somewhat how people go carried along by the ministries and everything." Included is also a model of Hitler's "Triumphbogen" (Arc deTriomphe), which would have had a volume 49 times larger than the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. It would have been at the southern end of the 'North-South Axis', one of two massive boulevards that would have dissected the city centre with bombastic architecture on all sides. The exhibition also has the plans for the "Fuehrer Palast" to be located near the where the Reichstag stands. The parliament building was to be demolished. The "Fuehrer Palast" would have included a 400-square meter office for Hitler, which had to be reached by a long marble corridor, another method Hitler wanted to use to intimidate visitors. Although Hitler's "Berlin - Welthauptstadt" ("Berlin -Capital of the World"), as he called it, never materialized because theThird Reich collapsed, some of the building work carried out by Nazis can still be seen. "The darker side can be seen in the system of enforced-laborers that was necessary for the building work," Keil said. "The forced evacuation of around 80,000 apartments was pushed through with much brutality, those of both Jewish and non-Jewish families. And there would have been a great slice cut out of the city, 40 kilometers long and several hundred meters wide through the historical centre of Berlin, it would have turned the entire face of the city onto its head." Graves were also removed in order to clear the way for tunnels through the city and Berlin's Jewish quarter and other areas were evacuated from 1933 so that homes could be used for Germans whose houses had been demolished for the building. "It was impressive, and now I finally realize why my parents had to move in 1940 from Schoeneburg to Friedenau, where I then grew up. I know that the apartment had belonged to a Jewish family, we still have furniture from them, but we could never trace them," said Helge Leitner. The exhibition is a part of the Berliner Underworlds, which was founded in 1997 and documents subterranean architecture. It is located between the "Fuehrer Bunker" where Hitler killed himself in 1945 and the Jewish Holocaust Memorial built in 2005. The new exhibition runs through the end of 2008.
Hitler's Vision for Berlin Explored in `Germania'
Review by Catherine Hickley

March 14 (Bloomberg) -- A colossal, copper-domed hall, crowned with an eagle clutching a globe, would have loomed over Berlin if Adolf Hitler had realized his vision of Germania, the would-be capital of the Third Reich.
Designed to hold 180,000 Berliners, with room for another million people outside, the vast hall was projected to soar 320 meters into the sky, almost as high as East Berlin's television tower, dwarfing the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate.
The hall dominates an architectural model of the grand plan, on show at an exhibition called ``
Mythos Germania: Shadows and Traces of the Imperial Capital'' that opens in Berlin tomorrow.
The model was created for Oliver Hirschbiegel's film ``The Downfall'' (2004), starring
Bruno Ganz, which reenacts Hitler's last days in the bunker. Maps, photographs and explanations in English and German complete this compact show, housed in a plainly built new exhibition hall near the Holocaust memorial.
Hitler's chief architect
Albert Speer, who died in 1981 at age 76, planned to change the course of the River Spree to get rid of some awkward bends, dig up seven cemeteries, and flatten hundreds of homes -- not to mention the Swiss embassy -- to make way for his monumental granite buildings. He aimed to complete the new city by 1950.
``Berlin will only be comparable as a world capital with ancient Egypt, Babylon or Rome,'' Hitler said. ``What is London, what is Paris compared to that?''
It is unnerving to learn that Bloomberg's Berlin office stands on a spot that Speer had in mind for his gargantuan Armaments Ministry. The Reichstag was to be integrated into a row of buildings next to the great hall; it would have looked matchbox-sized by comparison.
Gigantic Arch
A massive triumphal arch, almost 50 times the size of Paris's Arc de Triomphe, was to tower over a boulevard decorated with the weapons of vanquished enemies. Hitler, who had begun planning the arch in 1925 -- years before taking power -- wanted the names of all 1.8 million German soldiers who perished in World War I to be inscribed on it. He commissioned war reliefs by his favorite sculptor, Arno Breker, to decorate the base.
``Like the ancient pharaohs, he (Hitler) planned to use stone to ensure his own immortality,'' Speer, the only leading Nazi to plead guilty and express remorse at the Nuremberg trials, said in an interview with Playboy in 1971. ``Germania would not be a city, but a sarcophagus.''
Very little of Germania ever made it into stone, and still less has survived. Hitler's outsized Reichskanzlei, with its marble gallery twice the length of the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, was destroyed by the Soviet occupiers in 1948.
Olympic Stadium
Isolated remnants of Nazi architecture include
Hermann Goering's Luftfahrtministerium, now the German Finance Ministry; Tempelhof airport, whose runways are set to close and whose future is hotly debated; the Olympic Stadium; and one of the city's more obscure architectural oddities: the Schwerbelastungskoerper, or heavy-load tester.
Speer built this mammoth concrete cylinder in the south of the city to test how much weight Berlin's swampy land could bear before work started on the triumphal arch. Until recently, the Schwerbelastungskoerper was hidden behind dense foliage and scaffolding, surrounded by fences and signs forbidding entry.
About the size of a four-story block and 15 tons in weight, it is made of solid steel-reinforced concrete. It was placed under heritage protection in 1995. The local authority is renovating it at a cost of 722,000 euros ($1.13 million), aiming to complete it by the end of the year and open it to the public after that.
Inside, measuring equipment shows that Speer's engineers found the Schwerbelastungskoerper to have sunk 19 centimeters -- not quite deep enough to have made the arch unfeasible.
Battle for Berlin
It was the outbreak of World War II that prevented construction of the arch, and of the rest of Germania. The spot planned for the great domed hall became the scene of one of the final episodes of the war, the Battle for Berlin.
Looking out of the exhibition hall's windows, it's eerie to think what the view would have been, had events taken a different turn.
``Mythos Germania'' runs until the end of the year. It is organized by
Berliner Unterwelten, or Berlin Underworlds' Association, a group that uncovers subterranean structures in the city and organizes tours of bunkers, tunnels and vaults.
To contact the writer on this story: Catherine Hickley in Berlin at
chickley@bloomberg.net. Last Updated: March 14, 2008 13:47 EDT

samedi 1 mars 2008

Kuala Lumpur, 10 years on…







Kuala Lumpur, 10 years on…

February 29, 2008

Back in town for a week of meetings. More than 10 years since we left, having lived here for a couple of years in mid-nineties. Left me indifferent. Confirmed my long-held feeling towards that city which I never missed…
Has it changed? Not much, except perhaps for some of the projects that had been abandoned mid-course when the Asian financial crisis hit in 1997. The elevated monorail is there, overshadowing Jalan Sultan Ismail. The sidewalks along Jalan Ceylon where we lived still have “dalles” missing…



Had a couple of dinners in new restaurant area, called the Asian Heritage Row – at Mezza Notte and Bar Savanh/Cochine (http://www.asianheritagerow.com/establishments.asp) Looking for the Hilton, the first foreign hotel which I visited back in 1980; could not find it until I realized that I was staying in it, under its new management and refurbished, the Crown Plaza…funny!

Took colleagues to Carcosa Seri Negara for dinner (the Dining Room, French cuisine). Former residence of British rulers and envoys. Returned to Malaysian government in the 80’s. Magnificent surroundings in park-like, hilltop, secluded area. (See official site for pictures http://www.ghmhotels.com/) Used to go there for lunch on Sundays, or tea. Brought you back to the old colonial days! The queen stayed there, late ‘80’s, during one of the Commonwealth Head of Government meetings – they will show you the room; actually you can stay in that room!

Drinks (read orange juice!) with Ching Ching, Cynthia’s old friend, longtime columnist in local press (“Stories my mother told me” I think). C wrote preface to her book. Troubled life; troubled marriage. Very courageous; always fighting the good cause, this time, that of Malaysian single mothers and their fight for economic survival – ended up bringing back to C several baskets they manufacture out of recycled products!...

In the middle of a national electoral campaign. Nothing has changed there, except that Mahathir has been replaced by Badawi, his anointed successor which he has since repudiated. Anwar is also out of jail, back on the scene but not a candidate as the ban on his running does not expire until April! Never liked the local politics. Mahathir, longtime leader, never as good as when sparring with Lee Kwan Yew; Anwar, too smart for his own good – ended up in jail on trumped charges of sodomy with his driver! Badawi, as exciting as a door nub! I hate the local press – always had; it’s in the pocket of the government for one thing, and I don’t like the papers’ presentation. It is a given that UMNO and its Barisan Nasional coalition will win again with its usual “2/3” majority which allows it to amend the constitution whenever it fits its interests. Although one can never be sure; changes sometimes occur when the least expected. And I get the sense that the traditional economic and race-proactive policies (the “bumiputra advantage”) have less hold on people. Stronger Islam identification current, creating a distance vis-à-vis the pluralistic, non-confessional approach of UMNO. There is also the Anwar factor. (Post Scriptum March 8 election results: Surprise! This time the BN did not get the usual “2/3”, for the first time since its creation in the 70’s. They lost also in 5 out 13 simultaneous state-contests. Major blow!)

Not missing the place…never had.

P.S, dropped by the pool at the old club, the Royal Selangor Golf Club, to see if any of the pool gang still haunting the place –sure enough, ran into TK Tan, former stockbroker; had a beer (actually a few!) together; reminiscences about old gang, his hard-drinking father, now deceased; dropped me back at the hotel.

dimanche 24 février 2008

Ski interlude on the way to Asia - Whistler!






















Whistler for 3 full days of ski! A break on my way to a full week of meetings in Kuala Lumpur. A discovery - first time here. They say you haven't ski until you have done Whistler - I think they are right! Runs like you have never seen - long, wide, fast, scenic, with glacier high peaks as a backdrop. Lucky with the weather - blue sky 2 out of 3 days. Could have used a little bit of fresher snow, hey but can you always have it all! Unusual visibility over the surrounding mountains I am told. 2 first days on Blackcomb Mountain - well studied slopes; wherever you go you have a choice: green, blue, black diamonds trails to select from. Cynthia loved it. Then the last day, Whistler Mountain. Wow! The Gondola ride, then the last bit to the peak - unrivalled and breathtaking! Much less studied - no comparison an old habitué tells us (Whistler predates Blackcomb: 1968 versus the 80’s). Skied the last afternoon with a bunch of Whistler aficionados, surely in their (early) sixties, going down these slopes like teenagers; I follow, with a gap! But boy, that was exhilarating! Sure clears the mind - the only focus is the slope under your feet, the turn ahead of you, which direction to go, and whether you will hold up to the bottom or the next lift! The cold air zipping by, the sun in your face...and the fire in your thighs!

The coming Winter Olympics are everywhere. The road from Vancouver, a veritable construction site. It’s everywhere in town. Real estate is of course booming. It’s President Week – the US holiday. The drop in their dollar hasn’t make a dent in the Americans coming here; as one guy put it to us, for those who come here from the US, the low dollar doesn’t make a difference. It is true, money must not be a factor; it is an expansive place – just try the Barefoot Bistro: only bistro by name, and certainly not for the barefooted! Reconciled ourselves with the place at Umberto’s Trattoria… It’s also the World Cup competition this week. These guys and gals go down at 120/130 km/h! Crazy. Busiest weekend ever. It’s busy in the winter and busier in the summer: trekking, mountain biking, fishing, and of course golfing. 2.5 million visitors a year; 1.5 million in the summer. A great place, no doubt. No wonder so many people that come here never leave, as some of the people we talked to; they came 20, 30 years ago never to return where they were from and settled in the area. Not a bad choice…

vendredi 15 février 2008

St-Germain-en-Laye, une refuge campagnard...








St-Germain en Laye

11 février 2008

Une rencontre d’affaires de quelques jours m’amène à St-Germain en Laye, en banlieue ouest de Paris, une commune des plus cossues de France (la deuxième après Neuilly-sur-Seine j’apprendrai plus tard). Découverte du château de St-Germain-en-Laye, le Château-Vieux, haut lieu de la monarchie française, du 12e siècle jusqu’à 1682, au moment où Louis XIV le quitte pour Versailles qu’il a fait construire. Belle structure autour d’une cour intérieure au paramètre pentagonal irrégulier, remise à neuf pour loger le musée d’Archéologie nationale, et auquel on a mis tout récemment la dernière touche à sa rénovation, un mouvement qui s’était amorcé du temps de Napoléon III jusqu’à Malraux alors qu’il était ministre de la Culture sous de Gaulle.

Une chapelle tout éclairé qui date du 13e siècle et où l’architecte (Pierre de Montreuil) s’est fait la main pour la Sainte-Chapelle à Paris, toutes deux haut-lieux du gothique médiéval

Construit sur un beau promontoire qui surplombe la Seine et Paris. Des jardins du design de Le Nôtre, dont ne subsistent que les vastes étendues. Un Château-Neuf fut construit, entre le Château-Vieux et le promontoire, puis détruit en grande partie dont il ne reste que le Pavillon Henri IV, transformé en hôtel et restaurant – où nous mangerons un soir – et où selon les indications Louis XIV serait né. http://www.pavillonhenri4.fr/


Journées ensoleillées quoique froides. Passées dans un hôtel de campagne, un Châteaux & Relais, Cazaudehore « La Forestière » http://www.cazaudehore.fr, agrémenté d’une excellente table – «Zagat rated » : Enveloped by a garden, this “lovely house in Saint-Germain-en-Laye” is “pleasant for a family lunch on the weekend or an intimate dinner”; “though it’s rather expensive, you won’t be disappointed” in the “refined”, “abundant” Haute Cuisine – “classic, but rejuvenated” with some New French “creativity”; perhaps the service “could be improved”, but a trip here is always an “agreeable escapade.”

Brouillard intense au matin du départ cependant.

Une chose m’intrigue : le traité de St-Germain-en-Laye. A quelle occasion et pour quelle raison? Je sais que c’est lié au Canada, mais je n’arrive pas à me souvenir, et aucune documentation au Château même pour m’éclairer. Je dois donc résoudre le mystère, que je fais à l’instant grâce à l’Internet. Alors voilà : Le traité de St-Germain-en-Laye intervient en 1632, sous Louis XIII et Richelieu, et qui officialise la fin de la guerre entre la France et l’Angleterre (1627-1630). De ce fait la Nouvelle-France et l’Acadie – que l’on avait rebaptisé la Nouvelle-Ecosse durant l’occupation anglaise – retournent à la France (qu’on se rappelle : les frères Kirke avaient conquis et occupé la ville de Québec; ils y sont restés 3 ans. Richelieu aurait envoyé des navires pour les déloger vers la fin de la guerre). Il y a eu effectivement un autre traité à St-Germain-en-Laye, celui-ci beaucoup plus récent : c’est là qu’en 1919 les conditions de la paix avec l’Autriche ont été entérinées, en présence des 4 leaders des Alliés, Wilson, Lloyd George, Clémenceau et Orlando.
Weekend à Paris. Beau soleil mais froid; descendu à l'Hotel de l'Abbaye .
Découverte du musée Cernushi:
Le musée Cernuschi, inauguré en 1898, est l’un des plus anciens musées de la Ville de Paris. Deuxième musée d’art asiatique en France et cinquième musée d’art chinois en Europe, il jouit d’un statut international que peu d’institutions muséales de la Ville de Paris possèdent.
Sa fréquentation, d’environ 60 000 visiteurs par an, le place au sixième rang des musées municipaux. Situé dans un bâtiment original et charmant conçu par son fondateur Henri Cernuschi (1821-1896) à l’orée du Parc Monceau, le musée propose à ses visiteurs une promenade esthétique de haute qualité à travers l’art chinois, des origines au XIVe siècle. La collection comporte plusieurs chefs-d’oeuvre d’un niveau mondial.
7 avenue Vélasquez
75008 Paris
visite à la Maison Européenne de la photographie:
Jean-Christophe Ballot - Urban Landscapes: de Berlin à Shanghai (16 janvier - 30 mars 2008) Depuis une vingtaine d'années, Jean-Christophe Ballot travaille sur le paysage urbain, réalisant des "portraits de villes". Il aborde la dimension scénique et symbolique de l'espace public, les tensions urbaines issues de la rencontre des masses architecturales, qui deviennent alors les acteurs de ses compositions. Utilisant une chambre photographique grand format, Jean-Christophe Ballot interroge la mémoire des lieux et révèle leur théâtralité en portant un regard tout à la fois contemplatif et inspiré sur l'architecture des villes. Architecte de formation, Jean-Christophe Ballot poursuit une double activité de photographe et de cinéaste.
coup d'oeil à la Bibliothèque nationale de France:
exposition photo - Carl de Keyzer
Photographe belge né en 1958, membre de Magnum depuis 1994, Carl De Keyzer construit une œuvre personnelle liée à son activité de photojournaliste. Le projet Trinity, du nom du premier test secret de la bombe atomique, tient à distance le compte rendu direct d’événements ponctuels au profit d’une réflexion de fond sur l’élaboration de l’Histoire et sur la valeur de témoignage de la photographie

samedi 5 janvier 2008

Des photos!

Ai profité du congé des fêtes pour organiser les photos de notre périple à l'automne. Les voici sur Flickr - suivez ce lien en le copiant sur votre fureteur:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bourlingue/