Sweden is also design country. Products and architecture. A glance at the tangerine-color Stockholm Municipal Library, designed by celebrated Swedish architect Eric Gunnar Asplund, in the twenties, in what is known as the Nordic Classicism style (before the so-called “aesthetic functionalism” of the 30’s and 40’s took over Sweden). Could not get in but was told the so-called “lending hall” with its huge circular 3-story high bookshelves located in the magnificent cylindrical sphere is just awesome. It is said that the library served as an inspiration to the Finn architect Alvar Aalto in building the Viipuri Library (also referred to as Vyborg Library), which was completed in 1935, another masterpiece of International Modernism, in need apparently of serious repair. http://www.alvaraalto.fi/viipuri/building.htm.There is also the more modern stuff we associate Sweden to, such as the Kulturhuset, the House of Culture, all glass, conceived by Peter Celsing in the 60’s in the modern part of the city, or the Kasnästornet, a 155 meter TV tower, more to the East of the city, and from the top of which you are offered an incomparable view of Stockholm apparently.
Early run Sunday morning along the Djurgärdsbrunnviken: 40 minutes of pure pleasure under a bright but gentle sun at this time of the day, protected by a few passing clouds and in the shadow of the green canopy, along that stretch of blue water, running on soft gravel, up and down gentle hills, a refreshing breeze cooling you off. I’d say one of nicest jogging paths I ever had the pleasure to experience anywhere in the world. Nice start for the day.
I am staying at the Grand Hotel, the oldest and classiest in town going back to 1874 if I recall. It is managed by the Intercontinental Hotel Group nowadays. Very central, right on the water, facing the Royal Palace, the Parliament and a commanding view on the city. My room gives on the water. http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/overview/stockholm-thegrand
Other hotels worth staying at I am told: turn-of-the-century Esplanade; J Sealodge Gashaga – outside of town and inspired by a summer house in Newport, USA; and Hotel Hellsten, designed in the old style of typical bourgeois Stockholm flats. Next time…
Plenty of good restaurants in Stockholm:
Lunch at “The Verandah” at the Grand Hotel where I am staying. Elongated, it’s fronting the hotel, glassed-in and overlooking the quays where ferries and sightseeing boats are anchored, the Royal Palace, the Parliament and Gamla Stan, the heart of old Stockholm, sitting across the water – unique view! Quite elegant, it focuses on traditional Swedish food (think of smörgåsbord) and serves as main dining space at the hotel, mainly for breakfast and lunch. (Also at the hotel is the Mathias Dahlgren Restaurant – the Dining Room and the Food Bar – offering a menu which we are told is based on head chef Mathias’ “natural kitchen” philosophy…whatever that is…)
Dinner at Wedholms Fisk, near the hotel. Lightly grilled scallops as entrée, followed by poached salmon in spinach (or basil?)-based cream sauce. Simply prepared, but highlight meal of the trip! Rather traditional - “old-school” Swedish seafooder. It’s a must I would say. Subdued atmosphere, very old-Europe style. Quiet; ideal for business or intimate meal. Excellent, discrete service. Highly recommended. http://www.wedholmsfisk.se/?change_lang=eng
Dinner at East. If Wedholms Fisk was tranquil, this was not! Young crowd on busy street; noisy happy hour on the terrasse. At the edged of Östermalm, the trendy neighborhood of Stockholm.Very hip, in Japanese-Scandinavian interior, with graphic design on the walls. Sea of blond hair, mostly women – very pleasant to the eye! Went there for Japanese; eclectic Asian food. Started with very fresh nems, followed by combination of sashimi – the usual: tuna, scallops, salmon, tiger prawns, and avocado. Fun and good! http://www.east.se/index_en.html
Dinner at Lisa på Udden. At the bottom of Djurgärden island, at Biskopsudden, a 15-min taxi drive from the hotel, going through very bucolic grounds (flock of sheep). Part of marina complex it seems; right on the water. Fixed menu, as we are there with the business group, 15 of us. Bouillabaise and lamb. Very inspiring surroundings. http://www.lisapaudden.se/
Dinner at Prinsen. More sedate, very-established, wooden-paneled restaurant. Swedish-French fare; French waiter with the expected attitude! Tasted the reindeer – a Swedish specialty: delicious.
Dinner at Den Gyldene Feden. Zagat’s take: “Beautiful old-world surroundings” dating from the 18th century define this “charming, historic” Gamla Stan “favorite” “in a cellar in the Old Town”; almost “everyone loves this place” for its combination of “cozy” ambiance, traditional local dishes (plus some International offerings) and “efficient service”, even if some say it’s “too bad” it’s “getting a little staid” and “somewhat touristy” of late; P.S. “the Swedish Academy dines there on Thursdays.” Had a selection of 3 differently prepared herring, served with local cheese, as entrée, followed by a steamed sole: nicely dressed up plate but not particularly “savoureux”. http://www.gyldenefreden.se/start.html
Leisurely Sunday lunch at Melanders Fick, small restaurant on Gamla Stan, sitting outside facing the water. Great view again – there is water everywhere in Stockholm. Had delicious, fresh, cold salmon with light mayonnaise.
Dinner at Josefina. New large, open-air, trendy restaurant on Djurgärden near the Nordiska and Vasa museums. Hosted by Tomas and Kerstin (pronounced “Shaastinn”!) of ICE. Started with herring and had the Artic Char.
Business lunch at Sjöpaviljongen. Again herring and Artic Char! Nicely located on the water, near our business hosts’ office, west of the city center but still on one of the 14 islands that constitutes Stockholm. http://www.sjopaviljongen.se/welcome.html
Dinner at StureHof. Zagat’s take: A “smart”, “stylish crowd” of locals and “hip tourists” hails this “huge, fun place” “conveniently located” “in the hub of Stockholm’s cool Stureplan district” for its “high-quality” “traditional Swedish” menu with a “seafood specialty” and “friendly, professional” staff (including “sommeliers knowledgeable” about the “nice wine list”); three “lively” bars and a generally “buzzing atmosphere” mean it’s “too bustling” “for those who like quiet dining”, but “lively” sorts love the “great people-watching” – especially from the “wonderful terrace in summertime.” Had the “Toast Skagen” with shrimps (they call them prawns) in mayonnaise and vendace roe as starters, and a cold, lightly salted salmon (in sheets this time!) with dill-creamed potatoes (small nouvelle-patate style, en-saison and ubiquitous!) http://www.sturehof.com/
Curiously enough, some of the better restaurants were closed for vacation – July is the vacation month in Sweden; but still right at the height of the tourist season! Some that I would have liked to tried: F12; Leijontornet; Eriks Bakficka, and Operakällaren. Out of town, in the archipelago, one of the best restaurants there, the unpronounceable Oaxen Skägardskrog, also an inn and a yacht hotel.
Going home on July 15.
Early run Sunday morning along the Djurgärdsbrunnviken: 40 minutes of pure pleasure under a bright but gentle sun at this time of the day, protected by a few passing clouds and in the shadow of the green canopy, along that stretch of blue water, running on soft gravel, up and down gentle hills, a refreshing breeze cooling you off. I’d say one of nicest jogging paths I ever had the pleasure to experience anywhere in the world. Nice start for the day.
I am staying at the Grand Hotel, the oldest and classiest in town going back to 1874 if I recall. It is managed by the Intercontinental Hotel Group nowadays. Very central, right on the water, facing the Royal Palace, the Parliament and a commanding view on the city. My room gives on the water. http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/overview/stockholm-thegrand
Other hotels worth staying at I am told: turn-of-the-century Esplanade; J Sealodge Gashaga – outside of town and inspired by a summer house in Newport, USA; and Hotel Hellsten, designed in the old style of typical bourgeois Stockholm flats. Next time…
Plenty of good restaurants in Stockholm:
Lunch at “The Verandah” at the Grand Hotel where I am staying. Elongated, it’s fronting the hotel, glassed-in and overlooking the quays where ferries and sightseeing boats are anchored, the Royal Palace, the Parliament and Gamla Stan, the heart of old Stockholm, sitting across the water – unique view! Quite elegant, it focuses on traditional Swedish food (think of smörgåsbord) and serves as main dining space at the hotel, mainly for breakfast and lunch. (Also at the hotel is the Mathias Dahlgren Restaurant – the Dining Room and the Food Bar – offering a menu which we are told is based on head chef Mathias’ “natural kitchen” philosophy…whatever that is…)
Dinner at Wedholms Fisk, near the hotel. Lightly grilled scallops as entrée, followed by poached salmon in spinach (or basil?)-based cream sauce. Simply prepared, but highlight meal of the trip! Rather traditional - “old-school” Swedish seafooder. It’s a must I would say. Subdued atmosphere, very old-Europe style. Quiet; ideal for business or intimate meal. Excellent, discrete service. Highly recommended. http://www.wedholmsfisk.se/?change_lang=eng
Dinner at East. If Wedholms Fisk was tranquil, this was not! Young crowd on busy street; noisy happy hour on the terrasse. At the edged of Östermalm, the trendy neighborhood of Stockholm.Very hip, in Japanese-Scandinavian interior, with graphic design on the walls. Sea of blond hair, mostly women – very pleasant to the eye! Went there for Japanese; eclectic Asian food. Started with very fresh nems, followed by combination of sashimi – the usual: tuna, scallops, salmon, tiger prawns, and avocado. Fun and good! http://www.east.se/index_en.html
Dinner at Lisa på Udden. At the bottom of Djurgärden island, at Biskopsudden, a 15-min taxi drive from the hotel, going through very bucolic grounds (flock of sheep). Part of marina complex it seems; right on the water. Fixed menu, as we are there with the business group, 15 of us. Bouillabaise and lamb. Very inspiring surroundings. http://www.lisapaudden.se/
Dinner at Prinsen. More sedate, very-established, wooden-paneled restaurant. Swedish-French fare; French waiter with the expected attitude! Tasted the reindeer – a Swedish specialty: delicious.
Dinner at Den Gyldene Feden. Zagat’s take: “Beautiful old-world surroundings” dating from the 18th century define this “charming, historic” Gamla Stan “favorite” “in a cellar in the Old Town”; almost “everyone loves this place” for its combination of “cozy” ambiance, traditional local dishes (plus some International offerings) and “efficient service”, even if some say it’s “too bad” it’s “getting a little staid” and “somewhat touristy” of late; P.S. “the Swedish Academy dines there on Thursdays.” Had a selection of 3 differently prepared herring, served with local cheese, as entrée, followed by a steamed sole: nicely dressed up plate but not particularly “savoureux”. http://www.gyldenefreden.se/start.html
Leisurely Sunday lunch at Melanders Fick, small restaurant on Gamla Stan, sitting outside facing the water. Great view again – there is water everywhere in Stockholm. Had delicious, fresh, cold salmon with light mayonnaise.
Dinner at Josefina. New large, open-air, trendy restaurant on Djurgärden near the Nordiska and Vasa museums. Hosted by Tomas and Kerstin (pronounced “Shaastinn”!) of ICE. Started with herring and had the Artic Char.
Business lunch at Sjöpaviljongen. Again herring and Artic Char! Nicely located on the water, near our business hosts’ office, west of the city center but still on one of the 14 islands that constitutes Stockholm. http://www.sjopaviljongen.se/welcome.html
Dinner at StureHof. Zagat’s take: A “smart”, “stylish crowd” of locals and “hip tourists” hails this “huge, fun place” “conveniently located” “in the hub of Stockholm’s cool Stureplan district” for its “high-quality” “traditional Swedish” menu with a “seafood specialty” and “friendly, professional” staff (including “sommeliers knowledgeable” about the “nice wine list”); three “lively” bars and a generally “buzzing atmosphere” mean it’s “too bustling” “for those who like quiet dining”, but “lively” sorts love the “great people-watching” – especially from the “wonderful terrace in summertime.” Had the “Toast Skagen” with shrimps (they call them prawns) in mayonnaise and vendace roe as starters, and a cold, lightly salted salmon (in sheets this time!) with dill-creamed potatoes (small nouvelle-patate style, en-saison and ubiquitous!) http://www.sturehof.com/
Curiously enough, some of the better restaurants were closed for vacation – July is the vacation month in Sweden; but still right at the height of the tourist season! Some that I would have liked to tried: F12; Leijontornet; Eriks Bakficka, and Operakällaren. Out of town, in the archipelago, one of the best restaurants there, the unpronounceable Oaxen Skägardskrog, also an inn and a yacht hotel.
Going home on July 15.
