Feeding in NYC – May 2009
In town for our ritual spring visit. Started badly with cancellation of “Impressionism”, a play with Jeremy Irons and Joan Allen. The play ran out of steam and they pulled it out. It happens, especially in the current economic context. The concierge at the Park Central NY was telling us that at the “outset of the recession” as she put it, 9 theatres immediately closed down! Tried to get tickets for “God of Carnage”, “the play of the year“, if you have to believe all the publicity around it, but to no avail.
Memorable meal though in lieu at The Modern, part of the MOMA. 3 or 4 years old, very design-conscious (how could it not be, sitting by this temple of modern art!) The Dining Room sits separately from the Bar Room; much quieter and more formal (they tell you when you make reservations that you need a jacket, “tie optional”!) – The Modern, winner of Wallpaper’s “best new restaurant in the world” award in 2006, is still a very in-place currently in NYC - and different, more elaborate menu, signed by Alsatian-born Gabriel Kreuther (Alsatian chefs seem to be particularly in vogue these days – I am thinking of the other celebrated one in town, Jean Georges Vongerichten of the eponym restaurant).
The cuisine is referred to as French-American – which I guess is a way to manage to say it is French but with a twist that makes it more palatable to American sensitivities – although I suppose we are way passed the “freedom fries” resentment of the early Bush era... Had a very “Spring” menu on offer; probably best white asparagus I had in a long time (embellishing on the traditional Flemish way to serve them!): two very large stems served with morel and gyromitre mushroom (false morels) sauce; with a glass of Chablis “Montée de Tonnerre” 1er Cru 2006 from Domaine Jean Collet. Cynthia had as appetiser a dorade “flash cooked” with sea urchin, yuzu (wild mandarine) and American caviar, with a glass of Chasselas, from Domaine Paul Blanck, Alsace, 2007 vintage. For main course, she had the pheasant breast with truffled potato puree, Brussel sprout fondue and a maple reduction, with a glass of cabernet franc Chinon Cuvée Terroir 2006 from Charles Joguet. I opted for the roasted monkfish with morel mushrooms, green asparagus and “Vin Jaune “– a bit repetitive from the appetizer but nonetheless very different with a yellow sauce that was rather “relevée”; kept to the same wine.
Finished that off with a baba Grand Marnier and a lemon Napoleon, creations of pastry chef Marc Aumont. Couldn’t quite appreciate it at night, but the large windows against which we were sitting give on the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden of the MOMA – will have to go back for lunch! http://www.themodernnyc.com/.
(Went back a few days later, this time at the Bar Room table. Equally original – how does a “Slow Poached Farm Egg “In a Jar” with Maine lobster, hearts of palm and sea urchin froth” sound to you? Or “Gaeta Olive-Crusted Quail with chorizo, barley, toasted almonds and pickled pearl onions”? Still, less pricey. Noisier, not the place for a quiet conversation; smart crowd, lots of “a drink, a bite after work at the museum next door” ambiance.)
Were for breakfast the day after in better-known territory: Norma’s at Le Parker Meridien, a favourite of ours (Zagat-rated for the aficionados). As busy as ever; had my “usual”: Upstream Eggs Benedict, served with smoked salmon, and, special request, sautéed spinach on the side. Cynthia had their Oatmeal Brûlée – that may be it though for Cynthia: she liked it but too much of a good thing, as they say,...Very copious fare indeed – no need to worry about lunch! Shared with Cynthia’s friend from Singapore, Kim, who chose New-York when she moved back to the US, and her book-publisher companion, Phil. http://www.normasnyc.com/eat1.php.
Feeding in NYC is, as in all large cities, an abundance of choices. Italian was probably predominant: Max Soha on Amsterdam, near the campus of Columbia University – only known to us because it’s a favourite of Laurence and Eric; Becco in the theatre district on “Restaurant” street – only because it was conveniently located; would not choose to go back; Barolo Ristorante in Soho – nice, large courtyard; and Trattoria del’Arte, on seventh Ave, next to the hotel, the Park Central NY, conventional and plentiful. A couple of Asian fare: pad tai at the Topaz Thai and sushi somewhere nearby the hotel (was hosted – no recollection of the name of the place...)
