Kristiansand. Little maritime community, at the southern tip of Norway, west of Oslo; it’s the principal city of the region, somewhere around 100,000 people living in the greater area, in a country that makes less than 5 million in population. Very bullish on its potential (see their official website http://www.kristiansand.kommune.no/Om-Kristiansand/About-Kristiansand/)
It has the charm we usually associate with Nordic communities by the sea in the summer: crisp atmosphere, close to nature – sea and mountains, long daylight hours (we are close to the longest day of the year!) Rather coolish for the season – 15 degrees centigrade. It’s clear and sunny today; it is supposed to get warmer in the coming days. There is a nocturnal food festival going on. Live music until midnight; people partying outside in front of the hotel (and my room!) until 4am last night! Nothing to help with the accumulated jetlag!...
Part of the city (“Posebyen”) has preserved original white-wood clapboard, one-story-high row houses; but “cachet” is gradually lost over time with new modern constructions interspersed.
The language is unique! http://www.omniglot.com/writing/norwegian.htm
Here for a “think tank” gathering on “the future of music”. Why in Kristiansand? I have to ask the organizer…probably because it is held in cooperation with the local university of Agder (Universitet i Agder); it’s the fourth time that the “Summer Thought Fest” is held, bringing together those interested in where the music industry is going; prime focus is on Europe this year…and for good reasons, given the mess it appears to be in…
The “Fish Market” (“Fiskebrygga”) is where the tourist is attracted, with restaurants built around a small arm of water (this is where the most reputed restaurant of the place is, the “Bolgen og Moy”); but also some businesses, local offices of large consultant firms – Ernst & Young, BDO, and others – are located there. Fronted on the sea, the North Sea, by several marinas. A fairly large port, likely servicing oil exploration platforms located off the coasts of the country and neighboring ones, Denmark, Sweden and Great Britain (I don’t know how people feel about the oil leak in the Gulf of Mexico currently…) Rather expensive city, judging by the restaurant prices…and the comments of some of the servers. Salaries seem to match though.
Staying at the Clarion Ernst, conveniently located. Older building that has been subjected to recent renovation. Very kitsch, with its large gold and silver colored rococo chairs that sit in the naturally lit lobby, and the gray color that predominates everywhere on the walls of the common area. The business room is very functional, 6 X 5 square meters, fully renovated, flat screen TV, Wi-Fi, compact washroom – shower only (in room 306 anyway!) which is OK with me. Nice modern, but small, gym in the basement, with windowed sauna. Good selection at breakfast buffet. They say it is best to stay in a room with windows giving on the street, rather than on the interior courtyard – lack of light and air in the hot summer days… Service adequate. Probably the best place where to stay in town, but no more than a 4-stars… (http://www.clarionhotel.com/hotel-kristiansand-norway-NO039)
Trouble at the horizon: security guards have started a strike and several airports are affected. Kristiansand’s is closed, and yes, it looks as if I will not be able to leave on a flight from Kristiansand on Thursday. On the advice of a local colleague, decide to go out a day earlier via the ferry to Denmark (Kristiansand to Hirtshals, just over 2 hours); short train ride from ferry to nearest town (Jhorring?), then cab from there to nearest bigger town, Aalborg, some 60 km away; overnight at the Radisson Blu hotel, in the center of town; then flying first thing in the morning to Copenhagen, then London, and finally to Toronto – a full day!) Unexpected visit of Denmark’s country side…
Sighting of “windmills” on my way to town. “12% of Denmark’s energy is wind-powered”, a very helpful English-speaking “local” gentleman (from either Norway or Denmark) commented to me on the train…
The Radisson Blu Hotel faces rows of restaurants; chose the “Provence” across the street and went for a lobster bisque only (quite good, rather light which suited me very well!) Attempt at re-creating some sort of historical quarter, with old houses revamped; Burger King facing the historical landmark – succès métigé…
Aalborg is no small town: 130,000 pop (190,000 if you extend to the “greater” agglomeration); “third in size in Denmark” tells me the taxi driver on my way to the airport.
Most efficient SAS staff at the airport – I had expected a less “urbane” personnel, wondering what to do with this passenger leaving from this “provincial” town and destined to this faraway land, but no, the attendant logged my bag through 3 flights, all the way to Toronto, in no time, answering my questions before I had a chance to ask them! That goes to show, service gets better the farther away one is from the big “centers”… Let’s see if my bag makes it to Toronto…
Moments of trepidation at the airport in Copenhagen when I could not find my passport on the way to control! Had dropped it in the lounge where I went back – a generous soul had brought it back to the staff…
June 17, 2010
