Staying at the dylan hotel (picture below). Boutique hotel featured in a British travel site I
frequently visit, i-escape. Here are a few extracts of how the reviewer
describes it: “…Walk through the
Victorian red-brick building and its limestone extension, and you journey
through several worlds. Tactile wallpaper, red-and-white Murano glass
chandeliers, gold skirting boards, Louis XIV chairs - this is no
white-minimalist haven, but a collage of sets from a Tim Burton film. In the
slick 'dylanbar' you'll find an Art-Nouveau pewter counter, double-sided hearth
and fibre optic mood lighting; in the lift, emu skin walls; elsewhere,
showstopping mirrors and metal sculptures… This is the hotel of choice in
Dublin for excellent service, stunning food presentation and superb,
no-holds-barred comfort…!”
Their description of the rooms is no less eloquent
(and pretty accurate!): “Walk in to your room and, as if by magic,
your favourite tunes emanate from the Bose iPod dock. It's that kind of place.
You request your favourite tracks before arrival, and they greet you (we
did not do that!) - in the highest of
fidelities. You get the best beds
we'd stayed in for a very long time: memory-foam, pocket-sprung mattresses,
Frette linens, a choice of pillows and a unique velvet headboard. There's an
LCD television, a cordless phone (Bang & Olufsen, of course), silvery
disc-lamps or chandeliers - all in bold contrast to the antique-style furniture
(chandeliers, rich fabrics, Art Deco-sculpted beds and footstools)… Bathrooms are no less indulgent:
Italian marble, power showers, underfloor heating, fat monogrammed towels and
robes, and Etro toiletries which are as sensuous as they come. There are even
His-and-Hers bath menus (or should that be One's and Other's): whiskey-brandy
and rose petals with champagne…” Our room is in the “Style” category.
Not “downtown” but in a leafy part of Dublin, just
south of the Grand Canal – fifteen-minute walk to Stephen’s Green.
Excellent brunch (had made reservations) on eggs
benedict (salmon and spinach), latte and cappuciano à volonté…
Weather – very seasonal: light rain, on and off;
around 55F(toronto must have been close to 100F when we left!) As they say here, “if it
rains, just wait 15 minutes!”
Walked in town along Baggot Street, to Dawson
Street and then pedestrian Grafton Street, full of people, stores and other
attractions…To finally reach Trinity College…
She visited the “Book of Kells” exhibition – the book, one of the first known to history, is full of illuminations, but only one folio (2 pages) are shown! – and the Long Room, a magnificent library, Cynthia commented. Meanwhile, I wandered about (outside) the Berkeley Library – very modern design – named after George Berkeley, the local philosopher who had influence all the way to California (the University there is named after him!). Walked around the campus – the College Park green spot – and then to Temple Bar.
Went into the Clarence
Hotel (picture below) – an old institution in Dublin, facing the Liffey, bought by Bono and
The Edge, of the reputed band U2, in the early 90s, and apparently still owned by them. Had a
drink first in the “oak-panelled” Octogon
Bar (where we had a glass of the local beer, Smithwick's – pronounced
"Smid-icks", a very good Irish Red Ale, I read, brewed by Guinness, the largest brewery in Europe, they say:
“a nice caramel malty backbone with some yeasty/bready undertones and a mild
tea-like bitterness”).
Then we had a (very) early dinner at the Tea Room, a restaurant within the hotel
but with a separate access directly to the back street. Renovated (from
whatever it was before – ballroom?); it’s large (and we are almost alone – it’s
early!), high ceilings. Modern outlook; wood (light oak) predominates. Here are
the comments found on local Georgina Campbell food website: “…Pristine
white linen, designer cutlery and glasses, high windows softened by the
filtered damson tones of pavement awnings, all combine to create an impressive
dining room; there is no separate reception area for the restaurant so you will
be shown straight to your table. Head chef Mathieu Melin took the helm in the
spring of 2007, and this respected kitchen continues to be a happy ship...” Cynthia had the rib-eye, and
I had the soupe-du-jour (a delicious velouté of potato and leek) plus a haddock
filet (fish and chips!) Plus glasses of wine. Cynthia goes for an “Irish
mille-feuille” as dessert…On the whole, very satisfactory…
Long
walk back to the hotel, under a light rain, along busy streets (it’s Sunday
night and tomorrow is a Bank holiday…) Early night – the effect of jet lag…
