Murano Island:
where glass things are made! On December 30, we went there by vaporetto (people
came right to the B & B by foot to pick us up!), about more than half hour
away from Venice, and “visited” one of the major factories – Vitreria Ducale (that is a very short
demo by an artisan working a piece of hot glass, and the rest of the time spent
in the showroom! – Cy satisfied her craving and bought a piece) Walked
in the bitter cold along the canal to the restaurant - Acquastanca Restaurant (showing up a
full hour before our reservation), but a very quaint place…and very good! For
starters, we had the very traditional salted cod mixed in seed oil, followed by
the main course, a piece of john dory and of sea bass, plus a bottle of local
(North of the Veneto: Fruli Venezia Gulia) white wine (Kyber).
In the
afternoon (5pm), attended the annual concert for the yearend (concerto di Capodanno) at Teatro La Fenice;
it was a late decision: we have been sitting in better places before but this
time we had to buy tickets in person the day before (I had tried on line much
before but it did not work!) We were
rewarded though by beautiful music (aria from Puccini and Verdi, with the
orchestra and the choir of the theatre and a few renowned soloists). We had
booked dinner at a very small place (a few tables and the kitchen) in the
Castello district – CoVino (hinted
by the NYT!): what a great choice it turned out to be! Spectacular! The food
(we had as starters the soup and the pasta, and as main course, the mullet and ...), the wine (a glass of Proseco – the best Cy
ever had! – and a bottle of light red from Linguria), the original maître d’
and host, Andreas, (the son of the brewer who did the natural Proseco, Mauro Laurenzon)
and the company (a couple from Australia, with their 3 pre-teen children)!
The day after,
we went back early to the piazza San Marco, to visit the Basilica; (while there, read parts of a 1989 Michelin green guide
on Italy on the basilica; see also St.Mark’s Basilica by Maria Da Villa
Urbani and titbits in Venise, Insolite et Secrète) spend a good part of
2 hours there before coming back to the B&B, to get direction (and
reservations!) for lunch at fiaschetteria Toscana (recommended by Alyssa at the B&B): excellent! Cy had a starter
and a simple pasta with truffle as main dish; I had a pasta with shrimps as an
entrée, and a grilled sea bass as main course + a bottle of white wine from the
same region (near Trieste in Firuli-Venezia Giulia, close to the border with former Yugoslavia) as yesterday, an unfiltered
2011 bottle from the winemaker Zidarich (Malvasia grapes).
That evening (before
our departure at 4:15am!), we spend it at the opera – Il Barbiere di Siviglia –
unusually played for a very small audience in a palace (Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto
which faces the Grand Canal - two different buildings that merged in the XVIIth
century - and has become the base of “Musica a Palazzo”, the association we had
to become members of to attend the opera!), going from one room to the other (3
times)!
Slept very
little to take the water-taxi that came in the middle of the night to pick us
up and take us to the airport!
December 31,2014