5 heures de route – le temps de compléter l’écoute de «The History of Opera» de Richard Fawkes.
On y apprend que l'opéra, dans sa forme moderne (les Grecs de l'antiquité pratiquaient une forme d'opéra), a débuté au tout début du 17ième siècle à Florence (Peri, Monteverdi - tous deux nés ailleurs!), pour prendre son essor ensuite à Venise (oàu Monteverdi s'était déplacé) et à Naples (opéra bouffe). Pas seulement en Italie, mais aussi en France (Lulli, Rameau), dans les principautés allemandes, et un peu plus tard en Angleterre (Handel). C'est aussi l'époque des castrati...ces males chanteurs qu'on castrait avant la puberté pour produire et conserver une voix de soprano feminine...
Étonnant de voir combien l’opéra a été populaire à travers les âges – des centaines ont été composés, depuis le début de l’opéra de l’ère moderne jusqu’à maintenant. Spécialement au début : on n‘écrivait pas « pour la postérité », mais bien pour répondre à la demande friande immédiate, quitte à « s’inspirer » de ses créations récentes, de l’année précédente par exemple!
(J’aime bien cette citation à propos de Rossini: on demandait s’il était vrai qu’il avait composé Le Barbier de Séville en moins de 14 jours; à quoi on aurait répondu : c’est exact, il a toujours été un peu paresseux!)
Et puis intéressant de voir que les compositeurs les plus populaires à une certaine époque sont aujourd’hui complètement oubliés, délaissés!
Étonnant également de voir combien de créateurs musicaux ont touché à l’opéra – certains évidemment très généreusement comme les italiens: de Monteverdi à Puccini (Tosca, Madame Butterfly – vus à Toronto et à Londres – et tant d’autres) , en passant par Rossini (le Barbier de Séville, Guillaume Tell), Salieri (rendu tristement célèbre par le film de Milos Forman, «Amadeus») et Verdi (La Traviata, Montréal 2012; et comment ne pas mentionner Aïda, cet opéra admirable, vu à la Scala de Milan en 2012!); les français : de Lully au XVIIe à Bizet (le très populaire Carmen), Gounod (Faust), Offenbach (opéra bouffe!) et Massenet (Manon) au XIXe, alors que Paris était le «centre de l’univers» - opératique du moins; les allemands: Weber, Wagner (The Ring; Tannhäuser; Lohengrin. Tristan et Isolde), même Richard Strauss (Der Rosenkavalier – Le Chevalier à la rose en français); l’opérette de son fils, Johann – Die Fledermaus (La Chauve-Souris) – prend l’affiche ce soir à Montréal), mais aussi Mozart (qui en a écrit plusieurs tout de même – entre autres le magnifique Noces de Figaro, vu à Paris en 2009, joué par une troupe africaine, ou encore Don Giovanni, à Prague en 2010– dans le théâtre même où il a été joué la première fois!), Beethoven (qui n’en a écrit qu’un – Fidelio – mais remarquable et très influent!) et Haendel (Allemand? Italien? Anglais?)! Il ne faut pas oublier non plus les russes (Borodine, Rimski-Korsakov, Moussorgski, Prokofiev) ou les tchèques (Smetana; Dvořák), ou encore l’Espagnol de Falla…
Et le genre continue; Benjamin Britten en Angleterre; « Nixon in China » par l’américain John Adams, et plus récemment « The Tempest » du britannique Thomas Adès (vu au Metropolitan Opera House à New York City, dans une production de Lepage, en 2012!)
Une belle façon de passer plusieurs heures au volant!
Montréal, le 26 janvier 2013
Post Scriptum. L'air le plus connu d'un opéra presque oublié reste sans doute "La Wally" de Catalini qu'il inséra dans son opéra quelque 15 ans après avoir composé cette aria en 1878. L'aria est sans doute très célèbre aujourd'hui grâce au thriller de Beineix (1981), Diva; elle est interprétée dans le film merveilleusement par le soprano américain Wilhelmenia Fernandez.
Toronto, le 1er février 2013
dimanche 27 janvier 2013
jeudi 3 janvier 2013
Rome, December 2012 – Restaurants
One of the books I read in preparation for this visit said that Rome is a city where one does not eat to live, but lives to eat! Perhaps this is correct! Here is a small sample of its restaurants that we were able to go to – many on our first choice were not available at this time of the year – Christmas and New-Year!
Piccolo Arancio (vicolo Scanderberg, 112); dinner, Dec 29. Recommended by the hotel (Daphne Inn), in lieu of the Locanda Barberini where they had made a booking initially. 5-minute walk from the hotel (strange street name for Italy!). We were introduced to Jewish-Roman cuisine with boiled and deep-fried artichokes and our first carbonara (penne) of the visit. Not disappointed, although we thought the carbonara was a bit too salty…We also savored our first bottle of Lazio wine (a red from Casale Della Ioria). The place is located on a side street and has no pretension! Hotel had made reservations but had to wait – the joint (I would say sitting no more than 30 people, which seems to be the average size of places we lunched or dined at during our séjour!) was totally packed, and people waiting outside!
Roscioli (Via dei Giubbonari 21/25); lunch, Dec 30. This was a suggestion that came from Downie’s Food Wine Rome (p. 91). Well written-up: he describes it as an “oddball. A crossover food and wine boutique”. It’s a small place for sure (better make reservations!) but pretty upscale I would say. It used to be a salami shop and it is still a shop (meat and cheese) at the front, with a few tables at the back. Well located, in between Campo de’ Fiori and the Ghetto. Cynthia had the amatricana, which is a classic; and it was delicious! I also had a classic: La carbonara (spaghettone) – in retrospect, probably the best carbonara of the visit, and it is apparently also known as one of the best, if not the best, in Rome! (Strangely, the menu also lists a hamburger!) Good bread and croustilles as well! We shared and excellent tiramisu (light) for dolce, with a coffee. Very good and friendly server – no annoying attitude! The wine was a Silene 2010 (cesavere superior) from Damiano Cioli, in the commune of Olevano Romano, Lazio.
La Buca di Ripetta (Via Ripetta, 36); dinner Dec 30. One of the hotel’s recommendations (“an old favourite amongst Roman locals, it offers its clients an elegant setting with a warm and homey ambiance. They specialize in typical Roman specialties, while also offering some slightly refined dishes that allow them to keep up with present-day culinary innovations. The restaurant’s chefs on a daily basis prepare by hand most of their pastas, all their bread, and they also place a special day-to-day emphasis on obtaining only the freshest meats and fish”). For this third meal, no antipasti and no pasta that I recall; just meat and vegetables: stuffed lamb with mint, accompanied by cicoria di campo, for Cynthia, and veal with spinach for me, with a bottle of red (Torraccia from Lazio region). No dessert; just coffee for me. Not particularly remarkable. Don’t think we would go back…
Enoteca Corsi (Via del Gesu 87/88); lunch December 31. Identified in David Downie’s Food Wine Rome (p. 125) as “the real thing” among the 100 or so trendy wine bars around Rome nowadays! The simple décor of an “osteria” has been kept – wooden tables with paper mats – that matches the simple food - we both had the “plat du jour”, a white lasagna made of ricotta and pesto, with a glass of local red wine (the day’s pour, a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo’s region). Had coffee and dessert somewhere else though (nearby Sant’Eustachio), as we were suggested to do so! Honest and cheap – very recommendable!.
Il Brillo Parlante (via Fontanella 132): Dinner, December 31. The hotel booked us for the second service of the night at 10:30 – recommended near Piazza del Popolo where the arrival of the New Year is celebrated (On a street behind Piazza del Popolo, il Brillo Parlante is a typical Roman eatery where you’ll find well-prepared traditional Roman specialties, grilled meats, delicious home-made desserts, and a wine cellar which boasts over 400 labels of wine from all regions of Italy, France, and other parts of the world”). Special menu for the event. We had Buffalo cheese and prosciutto for antipasti, and for primi, orecchiette pasta (can’t remember at what sauce, but Cynthia said it was very good!) and carborana pasta (not so good – without much savor!) with a Sicilian red wine (Nero d'Avola from the Lamuri winery)…Not particularly impressed…perhaps because it was New Year’s Eve, and everything was a bit too contrived…
L’ Archeologia (Via Appia Antica 139): Lunch, January 1. Commented on in Downie’s Food Wine Rome (p. 333-4). Beautiful décor and very upscale; very warm atmosphere, with fireplace and all! We chose to sit “outside” (which is outside but, really, well covered and warm!) Special menu for the day (2013 New Year Day). Shared our meals with Paolo Cherici (a colleague at SIAE) and his wife Ria (Dutch) (they spent the day with us, biking along Via Appia Antica – they also lived not too far from there) and ended up, for antipasti, with artichoke paste in a white sauce, ham (of a high quality – I wish I would remember!) with a white wine (Frascati Superior) from Poggio Verde in the town of Frascati, Lazio; and for main courses, paccheri, ravioli with Tomato sauce and a red wine: Casale del Giglio, (Madrelesva), 2008 from Lazio region equally. Plus dolce and coffee. A fine meal and quite a recommendable place!
Cul de Sac (Piazza Pasquino 73): Dinner, January 1.Recomended in my readings (Rome – Wallpaper guide) and by the hotel. Just off Piazza Pavone. They apparently don’t take reservations (that night, anyway), but hotel called nonetheless to get a reservation “ticket” which allowed us to wait outside (the place is that small!) not too long. Not hungry for a full meal – so just had an assortment of meats and cheeses, along with a glass of red wine (cesanese grapes) from Lazio. Not disappointed and heard many good comments from people coming out of the place while we were waiting to get in. Stopped nearby at Sant’Eustachio for a last “Roman coffee”!
Rome, January 2, 2013
Rome -- January 1, 2013
The morning after…capucino and croissants at the street corner caffé!
Sunny but getting cloudy in afternoon. Today, it’s the country side: Via Appia Antica (South of Rome)!
Met with SIAE colleague and wife (Paolo and Ria) at their place (Via Lucio Sestio) to bike Via Appia Antica; latter goes back to 312 BC! First 90 km laid by Appius Claudius Caecus; eventually (190BC) went all the way to the Adriatic (Brindisi, some 540km away)! Came through the Park of Seven Aqueducts - visited a few remnants (several: higher one going back to 1st century; other, parallel, built and still running, in Middle Ages, on antique foundations). Fascinating! Water comes from mountains some 90 km away, first underground then by aqueduct to Rome for last 15kms. More water per capita in the antiquity than now! Once on Via Appia Antica, biked up first to the entrance (back door) of the Baths of Caracalla, then down to the restaurant.
Lunch at Archeologia (see separate blog entry) along Via Appia
No time to visit nearby churches or catacombs! Biked back to their place for one hour or so through the country side (“campagna”)where a flock of sheep were grazing…Subway back to the hotel.
We topped it off, for diner around 9pm, with a selection of meat cuts and cheeses, and a glass of red wine (cesanese grapes) from Lazio at Cul de Sac (they don’t take reservations, but have your hotel call – you will get a number so that the wait outside is not to long!), and a last coffee at nearby Sant’Eustachio caffé, on the way back to the hotel (via Trevi Fountain once more) under the rain…
Rome, January 2, 2013
Sunny but getting cloudy in afternoon. Today, it’s the country side: Via Appia Antica (South of Rome)!
Met with SIAE colleague and wife (Paolo and Ria) at their place (Via Lucio Sestio) to bike Via Appia Antica; latter goes back to 312 BC! First 90 km laid by Appius Claudius Caecus; eventually (190BC) went all the way to the Adriatic (Brindisi, some 540km away)! Came through the Park of Seven Aqueducts - visited a few remnants (several: higher one going back to 1st century; other, parallel, built and still running, in Middle Ages, on antique foundations). Fascinating! Water comes from mountains some 90 km away, first underground then by aqueduct to Rome for last 15kms. More water per capita in the antiquity than now! Once on Via Appia Antica, biked up first to the entrance (back door) of the Baths of Caracalla, then down to the restaurant.
Lunch at Archeologia (see separate blog entry) along Via Appia
No time to visit nearby churches or catacombs! Biked back to their place for one hour or so through the country side (“campagna”)where a flock of sheep were grazing…Subway back to the hotel.
We topped it off, for diner around 9pm, with a selection of meat cuts and cheeses, and a glass of red wine (cesanese grapes) from Lazio at Cul de Sac (they don’t take reservations, but have your hotel call – you will get a number so that the wait outside is not to long!), and a last coffee at nearby Sant’Eustachio caffé, on the way back to the hotel (via Trevi Fountain once more) under the rain…
Rome, January 2, 2013
Rome – December 31, 2012
Another perfect winter day!
Started the day early with a short ride on the subway (Barberini Station to that of Ottaviano-San Pietro, 4 stations away on Line A). Walked to St-Peter’s Piazza to queue up and visit the Basilica; it’s only 9am and already there is a queue but it takes less than 15 minutes to get in. It’s a quick tour- to the Bernini’s baldachin papal altar at the front, and sight of Michelangelo’s Pieta at the back – partly because we both have been there before, and partly because we’ve got to be at the Museums by 10am.
Short walk back towards the entrance of the Museums, enough to measure the folly of a visit there! It is not 10 o’clock yet and the queue of those who don’t have tickets to visit extends a good kilometer-long, if not 2, along the streets leading to the entrance. I would never had dreamed to go without booking in advance on the Net, which gave us immediate access (but not without some pandemonium!) to the entrance. They give you 2 hours to visit, which is essentially just enough walking along the various galleries – the Pinacoceta first, then the Museo Chiaramonti and Museo pio-Clementino, followed by a series of others where I lost interest – surrounded by hordes of tourists, mainly guided tours, capped by a visit of the Sistine Chapel, packed jammed with swarming visitors, and with officials trying to hurl the crowd toward the exit and to lower the noise level by shouting to keep silence! Not a pleasant experience in my book, and not one that I would want to repeat in these conditions for at least another 20 years!
Once out and back in St Pietro Piazza (and after a few errands), walked to nearby Castel Sant-Angelo – first Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, then a fortification for the popes; also immortalized by Pucini’s opera Tosca – to cross the Tiber on the bridge of the same name, decorated by Bernini’s angels standing along. Walked along Corso Emmanuel Vittorio II until we reached Rome’s principal Jesuit church (St-Ignace de Loyala, lived and was buried there), Chiesa del Gesu, and had lunch at the Enoteca Corsi (see separate blog) on Via del Gesu.
Could not avoid having a coffee (and a sweet thing!) at Sant’ Eustachio, the most celebrated coffee in Rome (see the dithyrambic review in the New York Times a few years back!) on a small square behind the Pantheon, before visiting the latter, this impressive if eclectic (with its rotunda and Greek-inspired square portico!) converted-into-a-church temple dating back to the second century AD. (Paolo was telling me, the day after, that the marble blocs that served to erect the enormous pillars of the portico had to be brought from Egypt, down the Nile...the marble from nearby was not strong enough!)
Carried on to Piazza Pavone – we lost the “vue d’ensemble” of the elongated piazza with Bernini’s 3 fountains and its surrounding buildings (notably Borromini’s baroque Chiesa di Sant’ Agnese in Agone) with the kermesse that was occupying the whole square! Carried on Via dei Baurrali through Campo di Fiori market to Farnese Piazza where we had some refreshments sitting at a café of the same name, facing the beautiful and large Palazzo Farnese which now houses the French embassy.
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On the way back made an attempt to visit the Palazzo Mattei di Giove in the Ghetto, home now of the Center for American Studies, on Via Michelangelo Caetani, but to no avail as it was closed (we had to remind ourselves that this is a Monday 31st of December!) Too bad, as this was identified as one of the “quiet corners” of Rome in Downie’s book (p. 21 & 22) – the Palazzo, built at the very beginning of the 17th century, contains, according to him, several sculptures (mainly busts) that were the product of loots of antiquity’s artifacts found around Rome during the Renaissance. Did notice however the plaque on the wall across the street commemorating the death of Aldo Moro, found in the trunk of a car on that street. Moro, a former prime minister and at the time president of the Christian Democracy, the party in power, had been kidnapped many days before, and then assassinated by members of the terrorist Red Brigades, in May 1978. There is quite a controversy around this assassination (did the government/Andreotti do the outmost to avoid it?) This was a very troubled period in Italy’s political history!
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The day is not over yet though! Dinner at 10:30 at Il Brillo Parlante, then just past midnight, walk to nearby Piazza del Popolo where New Year’s celebrations are taking place (lots of people drinking and drunk; petarades – fireworks; see video above) Walked back to the hotel, going by the “Spanish Steps”, again full of people, milling around, shouting, drinking and drunk! Happy New Year!
Started the day early with a short ride on the subway (Barberini Station to that of Ottaviano-San Pietro, 4 stations away on Line A). Walked to St-Peter’s Piazza to queue up and visit the Basilica; it’s only 9am and already there is a queue but it takes less than 15 minutes to get in. It’s a quick tour- to the Bernini’s baldachin papal altar at the front, and sight of Michelangelo’s Pieta at the back – partly because we both have been there before, and partly because we’ve got to be at the Museums by 10am. 
Could not avoid having a coffee (and a sweet thing!) at Sant’ Eustachio, the most celebrated coffee in Rome (see the dithyrambic review in the New York Times a few years back!) on a small square behind the Pantheon, before visiting the latter, this impressive if eclectic (with its rotunda and Greek-inspired square portico!) converted-into-a-church temple dating back to the second century AD. (Paolo was telling me, the day after, that the marble blocs that served to erect the enormous pillars of the portico had to be brought from Egypt, down the Nile...the marble from nearby was not strong enough!)Carried on to Piazza Pavone – we lost the “vue d’ensemble” of the elongated piazza with Bernini’s 3 fountains and its surrounding buildings (notably Borromini’s baroque Chiesa di Sant’ Agnese in Agone) with the kermesse that was occupying the whole square! Carried on Via dei Baurrali through Campo di Fiori market to Farnese Piazza where we had some refreshments sitting at a café of the same name, facing the beautiful and large Palazzo Farnese which now houses the French embassy.
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On the way back made an attempt to visit the Palazzo Mattei di Giove in the Ghetto, home now of the Center for American Studies, on Via Michelangelo Caetani, but to no avail as it was closed (we had to remind ourselves that this is a Monday 31st of December!) Too bad, as this was identified as one of the “quiet corners” of Rome in Downie’s book (p. 21 & 22) – the Palazzo, built at the very beginning of the 17th century, contains, according to him, several sculptures (mainly busts) that were the product of loots of antiquity’s artifacts found around Rome during the Renaissance. Did notice however the plaque on the wall across the street commemorating the death of Aldo Moro, found in the trunk of a car on that street. Moro, a former prime minister and at the time president of the Christian Democracy, the party in power, had been kidnapped many days before, and then assassinated by members of the terrorist Red Brigades, in May 1978. There is quite a controversy around this assassination (did the government/Andreotti do the outmost to avoid it?) This was a very troubled period in Italy’s political history!
Carried on to the hotel by the now familiar itinerary, along Via del Corso, plus another pit-stop at Trevi’s fountain!
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The day is not over yet though! Dinner at 10:30 at Il Brillo Parlante, then just past midnight, walk to nearby Piazza del Popolo where New Year’s celebrations are taking place (lots of people drinking and drunk; petarades – fireworks; see video above) Walked back to the hotel, going by the “Spanish Steps”, again full of people, milling around, shouting, drinking and drunk! Happy New Year!
Roma, January 1, 2013
Rome -- December 30, 2012
Early morning rise, petit déjeuner, then walked up Via Vittorio Veneto (and a little unintended detour!) to the Villa Borghese, Rome’s most popular public park. First though it is where Borghese’s residence is located that lodged the Galleria; “the queen of all private art collections”. Works by Caravaggio, Bernini (sculptures), Botticelli and Raphael.
Perfect winter day: not a cloud in the sky; about 7 degrees (it’s early!)
Created by Cardinale Scipione Borghese – 1579-1633; rich, powerful and a cardinal at 26 (he was the nephew – “il nipote”; hence the expression ‘nepotism’? – of the pope (Paul V)! The picture gallery (second floor) and the museum (ground floor) are housed in his villa (Casino Borghese – 17th century).
What a trove! This is what I wrote the first time I visited (blog June 2008): pousse jusqu’à la Galleria, le musée (http://www.galleriaborghese.it/). Extraordinaire. Redécouvre Le Bernin (Bernini); ses magnifiques sculptures : le rapt de Proserpine, en plein centre de la magnifique salle des Empereurs, Apollon et Daphné, David ; jamais aura-t-on capté autant de mouvement dans une création qui se veut par définition immobile ! Et puis la lascive Pauline Borghèse, la sœur de Napoléon, tout le long étendue, grandeur nature, presque nue, sur son matelas de marbre blanc, une œuvre de Canova ; on peut comprendre que son mari en fut scandalisé, suffisamment pour la cacher (la sculpture) et puis éventuellement la divorcer (Pauline)… !
Lunch at Roscioli, a quint place (see separate entry: Rome December 2012 – restaurants)
Our visit of Ancient Rome started, funny enough, by taking tickets to the site 2 locals gave us as they were leaving – we took them as they saved us the time (of which we were short of!) to queue and buy ourss! So we went in, walked down part of the Forum (Foro Romano), along Via Sacra, determined to get and visit the Colloseo before it closes for the day! Got there in time and finessed our way in through the wrong line! Spent an hour or so at the Colloseo; could not walk back through the Forum; so walked back Via dei Fori Imperiali to the “typewriter”(Monumento a Vittorio Emmanuel II – built around the turn of the 19th century to commemorate the unification of Italy – a monument that is considered a “disgrace” because its location, right by what is left of the Forum…), and walked up to the Piazza del Campidoglio, on the Capitol. Interesting: the view around is of buildings built during the Renaissance – a renovation led by Michelangelo himself: there is nothing left of the landmarks of Ancient Rome on the Capitol – the Temple of Jupiter (at least not above ground!) that was supposedly on the right peak of the hill, and the Temple of Juno Moneta, on the left peak (low ones!). This is where, according to historians (Livy), triumphs – spectacular parades granted by the Senate to victorious generals after their victories – apparently were taking place.
At the Colloseo, no trace yet of the restoration that President and CEO of leather goods company Tod’s, Diego Della Valle, has offered to pay for (25M Euros), in return for 15 years of exclusive use of its image! Restoration is expected to be completed by 2015
Piazza del Campidoglio, in the middle of which was placed the famous 2nd century copper statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (it’s a copy – the original is in the Capitoline Museums lodged in the 2 palaces boarding the square!), is a product of Michelangelo, famous for its trapezoidal design (and the statue, of course!) At the end of the square stands the Palazzo Senatorio, built (Michelangelo’s design) on top of what used to be in Ancient Rome the Tabularium, where state archives (laws inscribed on tablets) were kept ; now, quite fittingly, standing on this old building, the offices of Rome’s mayor.
Went to the right to observe the ancient forum below (the Foro Romano had been the center of antique Rome official life since its edification starting in the 7th century BC!) Came back, and then to the left up the stairs to experience what David Downie described as a “quiet corner” in his book of the same title: Scalla dell’Arce Capitolina (p. 49). Steps not steep enough to discourage visitors, but indeed far less of a crowd than on the piazza itself!
Walked back to the hotel, using for a while full-of-people Via del Corso, with a pit stop at the Trevi Fountain (as ever popular – thousands of people wishing things, at 5pm!)
Dinner at La Buca di Ripetta (see separate blog entry: Rome December 2012 – Restaurants)
Roma, Dec 30, 2012
Rome – December 29, 2012
This is Cynthia’s second time in Rome; my 3rd here. First time was in August or September 1994, when we (in a "previous life") stayed at the Grand Hotel (now the St Regis, Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 3, opened in 1894 by César Ritz, with Auguste Escoffier as chef – it was the centennial of the hotel and, as a celebration, they had reproduced the same menu as Escoffier had at the opening). Then I came in June 2008 for professional meetings, when I stayed at the Intercontinental Hotel (see blog entries). And now December 2012, we are staying at the Daphne Inn – Trevi, a neat boutique hotel, recommended and booked through i-escape.com, a favorite travel site of ours.
We got to Rome after nearly staying two weeks at our place in Fort-Chambray, Malta (on Gozo). Mid-afternoon flight (on time but long wait for the luggage at Fiumicino!). That late afternoon winter sun! Driven to the Daphne Inn – Trevi, on small Via degli Avignonesi, number 20 – a good move, rather than wasting time by train and by taxi. Enough time to walk up Via Barberini and go to the nearby Chiesa Santa Maria della Vittoria and see Bernini’s famous rendition of Santa Teresa de Avila’s ecstasy. Not the only ones to be amateurs! Maybe 20 odd people in the “pénombre” of this rather small church, past 5 o’clock in the afternoon, to come and admire this ethereal sculpture of a saint in what could be easily read – as many have – as going through an orgasm! 
Rome for me invokes first history, from its mythical beginnings with Remus and Romulus to the end of the Empire (the Western one that is), somewhere around A.D. 470; and especially the end of the Republic, at the time of Cesar’s assassination, followed by the advent of the Empire with Augustus, Tibère and Néron. Writers also, such as Cicero and Virgil. Then the popes, the Renaissance, and Christianity! And much more when I start thinking of it! Always leaving a gap though – the Middle Ages; from the end of the Empire, to the 14th and 15th centuries, the beginning of the Renaissance! This is when Rome went into a decadence of sort I read – aqueducts were down, people moved away from the hills, etc. – the population going down from over 1 million to as little as 20,000 people; hard to imagine nowadays: sheep in the Roman Forum and around town!
We read quite a few books and Net entries about Rome in preparation for this visit (see references in a separate blog entry, further down). I was struck by some of the quotes, in one of the guide books in particular: “A short visit does not mean a short guidebook! On the contrary…” Then this one from Stendhal in 1829: “Preparatory studies are needed for the voyage to Rome”!
We got to Rome after nearly staying two weeks at our place in Fort-Chambray, Malta (on Gozo). Mid-afternoon flight (on time but long wait for the luggage at Fiumicino!). That late afternoon winter sun! Driven to the Daphne Inn – Trevi, on small Via degli Avignonesi, number 20 – a good move, rather than wasting time by train and by taxi. Enough time to walk up Via Barberini and go to the nearby Chiesa Santa Maria della Vittoria and see Bernini’s famous rendition of Santa Teresa de Avila’s ecstasy. Not the only ones to be amateurs! Maybe 20 odd people in the “pénombre” of this rather small church, past 5 o’clock in the afternoon, to come and admire this ethereal sculpture of a saint in what could be easily read – as many have – as going through an orgasm! 
On the way back, a peak at the Grand Hotel (Hotel Régis) where I stayed some 20 years ago, oblivious to the celebrated Bernini next door…
The Daphne Inn – Trevi: Great little hotel! Extension of same boutique hotel located nearby, off Via Veneto. Found it and booked it through i-escape.com. Well located, in Barberini area (near subway station – very central, of course can walk just about everywhere!) Compact room but very comfortable. No TV (which is fine with us!) Soundproofing limited though. Breakfast included; cold buffet style; served starting at 7:30. Incredible service (thanks to the 3 younger attendants – Carlos, Andrea and Stephano): made several requests prior and during our stay for restaurant recommendations and bookings – always thoroughly researched and answered promptly!
Dinner at Piccolo Arancio around 9 o’clock – artichokes (boiled and grilled) and carbonaras - see separate blog entry covering various restaurants we went to while in Rome this time. Cynthia started us on wine from Lazio; this one: a red from Casale Della Ioria!
We were a bit “fatigués”; so in spite of the plan to “roam” around, we simply walked straight back to hotel…
Roma, Dicembre 29, 2012
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