Rome – December 29, 2012

This is Cynthia’s second time in Rome; my 3^rd here. First time was in August or September 1994, when we (in a "previous life") stayed at the Grand Hotel (now the St Regis, Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 3, opened in 1894 by César Ritz, with Auguste Escoffier as chef – it was the centennial of the hotel and, as a celebration, they had reproduced the same menu as Escoffier had at the opening). Then I came in June 2008 for professional meetings, when I stayed at the Intercontinental Hotel (see blog entries). And now December 2012, we are staying at the Daphne Inn – Trevi, a neat boutique hotel, recommended and booked through i-escape.com, a favorite travel site of ours.

Rome for me invokes first history, from its mythical beginnings with Remus and Romulus to the end of the Empire (the Western one that is), somewhere around A.D. 470; and especially the end of the Republic, at the time of Cesar’s assassination, followed by the advent of the Empire with Augustus, Tibère and Néron. Writers also, such as Cicero and Virgil. Then the popes, the Renaissance, and Christianity! And much more when I start thinking of it! Always leaving a gap though – the Middle Ages; from the end of the Empire, to the 14^th and 15^th centuries, the beginning of the Renaissance! This is when Rome went into a decadence of sort I read – aqueducts were down, people moved away from the hills, etc. – the population going down from over 1 million to as little as 20,000 people; hard to imagine nowadays: sheep in the Roman Forum and around town!

We read quite a few books and Net entries about Rome in preparation for this visit (see references in a separate blog entry, further down). I was struck by some of the quotes, in one of the guide books in particular:  “A short visit does not mean a short guidebook! On the contrary…” Then this one from Stendhal in 1829: “Preparatory studies are needed for the voyage to Rome”!

We got to Rome after nearly staying two weeks at our place in Fort-Chambray, Malta (on Gozo). Mid-afternoon flight (on time but long wait for the luggage at Fiumicino!). That late afternoon winter sun! Driven to the Daphne Inn – Trevi, on small Via degli Avignonesi, number 20 – a good move, rather than wasting time by train and by taxi. Enough time to walk up Via Barberini and go to the nearby Chiesa Santa Maria della Vittoria and see Bernini’s famous rendition of Santa Teresa de Avila’s ecstasy. Not the only ones to be amateurs! Maybe 20 odd people in the “pénombre” of this rather small church, past 5 o’clock in the afternoon, to come and admire this ethereal sculpture of a saint in what could be easily read – as many have – as going through an orgasm!

On the way back, a peak at the Grand Hotel (Hotel Régis) where I stayed some 20 years ago, oblivious to the celebrated Bernini next door…

The Daphne Inn – Trevi: Great little hotel! Extension of same boutique hotel located nearby, off Via Veneto. Found it and booked it through i-escape.com. Well located, in Barberini area (near subway station – very central, of course can walk just about everywhere!) Compact room but very comfortable. No TV (which is fine with us!) Soundproofing limited though. Breakfast included; cold buffet style; served starting at 7:30. Incredible service (thanks to the 3 younger attendants – Carlos, Andrea and Stephano): made several requests prior and during our stay for restaurant recommendations and bookings – always thoroughly researched and answered promptly!

Dinner at Piccolo Arancio around 9 o’clock – artichokes (boiled and grilled) and carbonaras - see separate blog entry covering various restaurants we went to while in Rome this time. Cynthia started us on wine from Lazio; this one: a red from Casale Della Ioria!

We were a bit “fatigués”; so in spite of the plan to “roam” around, we simply walked straight back to hotel…

Roma, Dicembre 29, 2012