Rome -- December 30, 2012

Early morning rise, petit déjeuner, then walked up Via Vittorio Veneto (and a little unintended detour!) to the Villa Borghese, Rome’s most popular public park. First though it is where Borghese’s residence is located that lodged the Galleria; “the queen of all private art collections”. Works by Caravaggio, Bernini (sculptures), Botticelli and Raphael.

Perfect winter day: not a cloud in the sky; about 7 degrees (it’s early!)

Created by Cardinale Scipione Borghese – 1579-1633; rich, powerful and a cardinal at 26 (he was the nephew – “il nipote”; hence the expression ‘nepotism’? – of the pope (Paul V)! The picture gallery (second floor) and the museum (ground floor) are housed in his villa (Casino Borghese – 17^th century).

What a trove! This is what I wrote the first time I visited (blog June 2008): pousse jusqu’à la Galleria, le musée (http://www.galleriaborghese.it/). Extraordinaire. Redécouvre Le Bernin (Bernini); ses magnifiques sculptures : le rapt de Proserpine, en plein centre de la magnifique salle des Empereurs, Apollon et Daphné, David ; jamais aura-t-on capté autant de mouvement dans une création qui se veut par définition immobile ! Et puis la lascive Pauline Borghèse, la sœur de Napoléon, tout le long étendue, grandeur nature, presque nue, sur son matelas de marbre blanc, une œuvre de Canova ; on peut comprendre que son mari en fut scandalisé, suffisamment pour la cacher (la sculpture) et puis éventuellement la divorcer (Pauline)… !

This time around, revisited the sculptures but saw more of the paintings, downstairs (Caravaggio) and upstairs (for the first time). First time though all around for Cynthia. Walked in the park to Viale de Mangiolie, piazzale Napoleone I, to the belvedere to admire a view of Rome.

Walked down to Piazza del Popolo, partly along Via Banguino, then all the way down along Via del Corso to a cross street (Via del Peblicito) and finally to Rioscoli on Via dei Giubbonari. The people in the streets! Incredible! It felt as if every Roman were out! Pedestrians had taken over – barely if a car could crawl on Via del Corso!

We went by Via Condotti to see the world headquarters of "the Sovereign and Military Order of the Knights of Malta" (SMOM), the palazzo is at number 68 (photo on the right - Spanish Steps in the background!) It is the smallest sovereign power, in the world likely - recognized as an independant state by the Italian government!

Lunch at Roscioli, a quint place (see separate entry: Rome December 2012 – restaurants)

Our visit of Ancient Rome started, funny enough, by taking tickets to the site 2 locals gave us as they were leaving – we took them as they saved us the time (of which we were short of!) to queue and buy ourss! So we went in, walked down part of the Forum (Foro Romano), along Via Sacra, determined to get and visit the Colloseo before it closes for the day! Got there in time and finessed our way in through the wrong line! Spent an hour or so at the Colloseo; could not walk back through the Forum; so walked back Via dei Fori Imperiali to the “typewriter”(Monumento a Vittorio Emmanuel II – built around the turn of the 19^th century to commemorate the unification of Italy – a monument that is considered a “disgrace” because its location, right by what is left of the Forum…), and walked up to the Piazza del Campidoglio, on the Capitol. Interesting: the view around is of buildings built during the Renaissance – a renovation led by Michelangelo himself: there is nothing left of the landmarks of Ancient Rome on the Capitol – the Temple of Jupiter (at least not above ground!) that was supposedly on the right peak of the hill, and the Temple of Juno Moneta, on the left peak (low ones!). This is where, according to historians (Livy), triumphs – spectacular parades granted by the Senate to victorious generals after their victories – apparently were taking place.

At the Colloseo, no trace yet of the restoration that President and CEO of leather goods company Tod’s, Diego Della Valle, has offered to pay for (25M Euros), in return for 15 years of exclusive use of its image! Restoration is expected to be completed by 2015

Piazza del Campidoglio, in the middle of which was placed the famous 2^nd century copper  statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (it’s a copy – the original is in the Capitoline Museums lodged in the 2 palaces boarding the square!), is a product of Michelangelo, famous for its trapezoidal design (and the statue, of course!) At the end of the square stands the Palazzo Senatorio, built (Michelangelo’s design) on top of what used to be in Ancient Rome the Tabularium, where state archives (laws inscribed on tablets) were kept ; now, quite fittingly, standing on this old building, the offices of Rome’s mayor.

Went to the right to observe the ancient forum below (the Foro Romano had been the center of antique Rome official life since its edification starting in the 7^th century BC!) Came back, and then to the left up the stairs to experience what David Downie described as a “quiet corner” in his book of the same title: Scalla dell’Arce Capitolina (p. 49). Steps not steep enough to discourage visitors, but indeed far less of a crowd than on the piazza itself!

Walked back to the hotel, using for a while full-of-people Via del Corso, with a pit stop at the Trevi Fountain (as ever popular – thousands of people wishing things, at 5pm!)

Dinner at La Buca di Ripetta (see separate blog entry: Rome December 2012 – Restaurants)

Roma, Dec 30, 2012