lundi 30 juin 2008

Pilgrimage to Stratford – second take of the season!











Pilgrimage to Stratford – second take of the season!


June 26

In Stratford for a second intake of theatre this year at the Festival – were here for the season’s opening last month. Came this time with Sylvia & André for the play tonight; we are staying for the week-end.

First fare for this stay: Cabaret, the celebrated musical. Great theatre! Anything that touches that era though is bound to be controversial. First sex: the play captures what was perceived as a depraved epoch where sexual mores where totally on the loose, and sex of all types – hetero, gay, lesbian and bi-sexual – was the driving force of a whole sub-culture in Berlin. Then there is the rise of Nazism, which goes in hand with the surge of anti-Semitism and violence. For many, this is the story. For others, and I tend to prefer that view, this is only the context. The real story is about the burst of creativity that came about in Weimar Berlin in culture and the arts – as the pre-war old society order had crumbled, and probably also, for many, out of sheer desperation due to the uncertainty and fragility of their livelihood – and which is depicted here, albeit in the seedier circles of “Kabarett” life.

To see Cabaret that way is more compelling if you drilled down in the history of this musical, to realize that the dramatic line of the story has gone through some serious iterations: this is a musical that is inspired from previous versions of the musical (Sam Mendes’ London revival in 1993 or Hal Prince’s Broadway original production in 1966), with strong influences from Bob Fosse’s 1972 movie version with Liza Minelli (which added a few new hits to the original musical), all of which is based on the 1951 John Van Druten’s play “I am a Camera” which was staged on Broadway, itself entirely based on Christopher Isherwood’s diary of his years in Berlin between 1929 and 1933, which he published in a couple of books in 1935 and 1939 (re-edited in a single book, The Berlin Stories, in 1954).

In that respect, it is interesting to read Isherwood’s own comments when he attended the rehearsals in 1951; he writes in the preface of the 1954 edition of his books: “As I watched those rehearsals, I used to think a good deal…about the relation of art to life. In writing Goodbye to Berlin (the second book), I destroyed a certain portion of my real past. I did this deliberately, because I preferred the simplified, more creditable, more exciting fictitious past which I’d created to take its place. Indeed, it has now become hard for me to remember just how things really had happened. I only knew how I would like them to have happened – that is to say, how I had made them happen in my stories. And so, gradually, the real past had disappeared, along with the real Christopher Isherwood of twenty years ago. Only the Christopher Isherwood of the stories remained…Now John (van Druten, the playwright) and Julie (Harris who played Sally Bowles) and the rest of them had suddenly swooped down on it, and carried bits of it away with them for their artistic use”. You wonder then how much of “reality” is left after subsequent treatments of Isherwood’s materials by Prince, Fosse, Mendes, and now Stratford director Amanda Dehnert! My point being that to appreciate this play, better focus on the “burst of creativity” aspect of it, rather than attach too much importance to its relation with history and factual accuracy.

Toronto Star’s review: http://www.thestar.com/Theatre/Stratford/article/433977
London NOW review: http://www.nnw.ca/NNW/displaydocument.cfm?DocumentID=2152&cabinetID=108&libraryID=32&cityID=1


Note: staying at the B&B “at Eleven”, and had an early dinner at “Bijou” – both highly recommended (more on this below)


June 27

Sunny today but not too warm – perfect weather to stroll along the streets of the city and the Avon River (referred to around here as “the lake”!) While Cynthia is at work… First stop at Callan Books, a small boutique-type bookshop lovingly tendered by what I can only assume to be its owner, J. Callan (bought something appropriate for Cynthia as a memento of this stay). Walked and drove around parts of town; Stratford must be the epitome of well-established, well-rooted English Canada agglomerations, with considerable history well preserved in its public buildings (e.g. City Hall) and numerous Victorian mansions nested in the tree-lined, shady streets that abound.

Lunch with Cynthia at “Down the street” restaurant, a small place with a small terrasse that gives on the street – good choice.

Second play of the stay: the opening of Fuente Ovejuna, by Felix Lope de Vega, in a new English version by this production’s director, Laurence Boswell.

Fuente est une pièce beaucoup moins connue, du moins du public anglo-saxon, mais d’un répertoire très populaire en Espagne de l’auteur extrêmement prolifique, Lope de Vega, contemporain de Shakespeare. Contrairement à ce dernier cependant, il approche l’histoire « par le bas » ; c'est-à-dire qu’au lieu de définir ses pièces historiques à partir de personnages illustres (par exemple César, Henri III, etc.), de Vega les construit, du moins celle-ci, à partir d’une populace qui détermine le cours de l’action et où les personnages historiques, dans ce cas-ci les très catholiques majestés Ferdinand d’Aragon et Isabelle de Castille, n’ont qu’un rôle secondaire et tout en rapport avec l’unique jeu de cette même populace.

Les faits qui sous-tendent la trame sont apparemment historiques : la population de Fuente Ovejuna qui se soulève en 1474 contre la tyrannie du maître-noble local, Fernan Gomez de Guzman, Commandant de l’Ordre de Calatrava – établie au 12e siècle pour reprendre des Maures l’Espagne – et l’exécute abominablement pour ces exactions économiques et sexuelles outrancières contre la population locale. Le fait mène à une « enquête » royale – où la torture fait figure de pratique courante à l’époque – qui n’aboutit à aucune condamnation faute de pouvoir identifier précisément ceux qui ont perpétré le crime. Et c’est là-dessus que de Vega construit sa trame et fonde la conclusion de l’histoire : les assassins de Gomez, ce n’est personne en particulier mais « tout le village de Fuente Ovejuna » ! Sur foi de quoi, les très catholiques majestés, se voyant confronter à l’option peu invitante de punir et d’exécuter tous les villageois, les exonèrent tous.

Contre cette trame historique, la pièce met en évidence et illustre la vie simple du peuple, avec ces petits drames (possible sécheresse) et ces petites joies (la célébration d’un mariage), celui de fait très anticipé et voulu du héros et surtout de l’héroïne du village, Laurencia, qui tombera victime de l’ignoble Gomez à l’appétit sexuel insatiable, et qui saura, dans une tirade remarquable et digne du féminisme moderne le plus radical, instiller le courage et la fureur qui manquaient à la gente masculine, jusque là peureuse et timorée, nécessaires pour les inciter à la révolte et à l’assassinat de l’infâme Gomez.

On y lira toutes sortes de messages – la victoire de l’action populaire sur la tyrannie, le début de la démocratie, le pouvoir des femmes en action, l’illustration de l’abjecte pratique de la torture – qu’importe: à chacun de choisir son message. Le fait est que c’est une œuvre très forte, magistralement interprétée, et où se côtoient tragédie et comédie, nobles et petites gens, en cela de Vega rejoignant tout à fait Shakespeare!

La critique du Toronto Star : http://www.thestar.com/Comment/article/451245
Celle du G&M : http://ago.mobile.globeandmail.com/generated/archive/RTGAM/html/20080629/wfuente30.html



Back to Shakespeare in the evening with the opening of All’s Well that Ends Well, one of these convoluted farces that challenge playwrights in mounting confusing and drôle stories, built around subtle – an not so subtle – intrigues and quid pro quos, to the delight of their audiences! In that, they are all from the same ink: Shakespeare, Molière, Feydault, Wilde, etc…

I enjoyed but it’s a comedy, and thus it does not have the impact on you that do tragedies. The more enjoyable part though is the mingling with the actors and artisans and selected audience after a première, a glass of wine in your hand; went out of my way, when Cynthia pointed her out to me, to meet with a young actress who played Joan of Arc in Bernard Shaw’s version that we saw at the Shaw Festival last year. Her name is Tara Rosling (I could not remember) and she was remarkable in her role – so powerful in her determination to accomplish her divine mission! Nice conversation about acting, moods that actors go through throughout a season, engagement contracts, unequal employment from year to year, the “free trade” between Stratford and Shaw, etc., a conversation that is joined by her partner, Patrick McManus, who is a member of the Company this year and plays in All’s Well (and 2 other plays this season!) Nice evening, and very clement weather; we walked back to the hotel.


June 28

Last play for me this time around: The Music Man. As musicals go, couldn’t be better put together. Everything is perfect: the interpretation, the tunes, the choreography, the music direction, the plot, the characters, the pleasure and emotion it inspires, the costumes, the accurate and sympathetic depiction of small America, everything! But to be truly taken, you have to be a “Musical man”, and I am not!

Review: http://www.canada.com/victoriatimescolonist/news/story.html?id=72817a79-3763-4676-b3e5-71203f91d80f


Had drinks and dinner with a former colleague of mine, Doug Valentine, he and his wife Beverly being true fans and supporters of the Festival. More drinking while Cynthia is at the première of Hughie and Krapp’s Last Tape – could not get a ticket, but I will see what Dennehy does of them later on in the season…

June 29

On our way back to Toronto, after a copious breakfast at Foster’s Inn, best place we are told for breaking fast in Stratford, and, having been there a couple of time now, I believe it!


Little catalogue of places we like in Stratford, starting with food:

Pazzo: favorite pizza place for us; in basement, at the counter; a ritual by now. The place upstairs is not so good, tells me Doug who should know as he lives upstairs in same building, a flat he bought a few years ago for their stays in Stratford.

Foster’Inn: great place for full breakfasts, …and luncheons, …and dinners,…and drinks; down the Avon theatre.

Tango: best coffee and muffins place, we found, if you don’t have time or the appetite for a full breakfast.

York Street Kitchen: tiny but huge sandwiches!

Down the Street Bar & Restaurant: on the terrasse; good fare.

And then in the more “recherché”:

The Old Prune Restaurant: sitting next to Margaret Atwood and Alice Monroe, and their significant others, one night…oh well! And for the food too!

Bijou: Innovative modern French cuisine, as their advertising goes. Truly so! Enjoyed a remarkable meal with André & Sylvia before Cabaret the other night…

Still to try in the same category:

Rundles and The Church.

Others:

At Eleven: A B&B we stayed at; in a Victorian house, nicely renovated, in modern and sober tones, by Jeffrey Schmidt, the owner of the place. 3 bedrooms: Queen, King and Master Suite with sitting room; spacious. On a quiet, tree-lined street. Garden and pool. Delectable breakfast: eggs benedict with a delightful, very light hollandaise.





Callan Books: little shop, stocked with well-chosen titles; lots on Shakespeare and Stratford


Stratford, June 29, 2008

samedi 21 juin 2008

Vancouver – jogger’s paradise…as cities go…







Vancouver – jogger’s paradise…as cities go…






Yes, from the Hotel Vancouver where I am staying, a couple blocks off Georgia Street straight for the harbour, and you get on what they call “the Seawall” along the shoreline, which leads to Stanley Park, a 1000 acres of fantastic green space at the tip of Vancouver, totally surrounded by water (leading to North-Vancouver via the Lion’s Gate bridge). You can do the tour of the peninsula – I’d say 9 to 10 Km – go around the Lost Lagoon and get back on the Seawall (I did my usual 5 or 6 k only). A whole lot more paths inside the Park (see http://vancouver.ca/parks/parks/stanley/pdf/stanleypark_overviewmap.pdf) Crisp morning, a bit of sun, lots of joggers of all ages, at all paces; great view of the city waterfront from the east tip of the park. Would love to do it again; and to do it full justice…

Board dinner at Bridges http://www.bridgesrestaurant.com/; a more intimate one at The Italian Kitchen the day after http://www.theitaliankitchen.ca/.

June 20, 2008

mercredi 18 juin 2008

Luminato in Toronto: “Indian Summer” performances.

Luminato in Toronto: “Indian Summer” performances.

It was Indian culture weekend for us, as part of Toronto’s newest “artsfest”, Luminato, the second edition I think (well it is for us at least – last year went to Philip Glass’ concert, a sort of multimedia affair built around Leonard Cohen’s “Book of Longing” – poems and drawings).

First “A Throw of Dice”. The 1929 classic silent film directed by German Franz Osten, telling the mythical story of a beautiful girl and the rivalry between two blood-related kings, the generous King Ranjit and the treacherous King Sohat, for Sunita’s heart. Great photography; black & white establish contrasts in the image that are lost in color films. And those dramatic close-ups on such expressive faces, exaggerated as if to compensate for the lack of sound and color… The novelty though is the score; by Nitin Sawhney, the Indian cultural icon. Absolutely fitting and inspiring! (For more on him and the show see: http://www.luminato.com/festival/eng/events/ID16/index.php) Sawhney was there, playing the piano and accompanied by a couple of female vocalists, a flute player, and a drummer (playing a “tabla”) – all Indians – and the whole of the Toronto Symphony Orchestra (at the – open-air and only partly covered – Molson Amphitheatre, where Nitin and the orchestra had to compete with the raging thunder of a summer storm that brought drops of rain blown into the Amphitheatre and water running down the angled cement floor…Great evening, nonetheless!)
(Note: had a quick bite at “Cowbell”, bistro-like resto at the far end of Queen West. Open less that a year ago; very popular judging by the crowd that was there – had to sit on the one-table terrace fronting the restaurant on the sidewalk. Heavy fare though: Angus beef, pork, duck, etc. Went for the appetizers only – charcuterie plate and asparagus dish and glass of wine. The cook – I assume – came out, for a breath of fresh air I suppose; telling us about his produce garden on the rooftop and “lovage”, a very potent herb with which he was spicing the pork dish tonight…)

And then, the day after, Shakespeare à la Indian, or should I say à la sub-Continent. Fascinating! A Mid-Summer Night's Dream, by a troupe that expresses itself in Tamil, 5 other Indian dialects and English, none of which I can really understand (certainly not Elizabethan English!) But what “gestuel”! I remember the same play, some 35 years, in London, put together by Peter Brooks. As fascinating but different (I was just a kid then, discovering the world – London is a good place to start!) But however different, both were wholesomely inspiring – I guess that is the virtue of the Bard…the universal value of it all. I enjoy and wish it on every one that reads this. Whoever puts it together (I think our national Robert Lepage did it too in London some 15 years ago), go and see A Midsummer’s Night Dream – erotic, young people at play, whatever; enjoy it - it does reconcile you with life…

Toronto (actually, mid-air, on my way to Vancouver), June 17, 2008

vendredi 13 juin 2008

Banff, in the Rockies...
















Banff, June 2008

June 5,
Got to Banff exhausted – 2 hours of driving; could barely drive the last few miles the jet lag being such. Colder than expected – 13 or 14 Celsius - especially after Rome. And then I hear it is 31 degrees in Toronto!

Staying at the Banff Springs, that magnificent castle built in 1888 amongst the surrounding spectacular Rockies, during the hay days of railroad construction and expansion in Canada. Truly a unique site, praised all over the world (an especially appreciated by the Japanese, considering the number of tour groups in from their country…) Love that hotel, and its 32-meter indoor swimming pool (opening on a view of the mountains still at this time of the year covered with snow at the top)!
http://www.fairmont.com/banffsprings/

Here for a conference on new media (nextMEDIA 2008). Second time around. Probably one of the best gatherings on the subject in Canada. Followed by the more traditional World TV Festival; won’t stay for that – just too “traditional”; too much of a “me too” that can’t really compare to others in the US or Europe, that in spite of the view from the Rundle Bar!

June 7,
Great cover in the G&M on the US presidential race – John Ibbitson’s front page piece in particular.
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/LAC.20080607.PRESIDENT07/TPStory/

Good essay as well on Western Canada and its future. Todd Hirsch, an economist based in Calgary, referring to a sign that welcomes visitors in that city that refers to it as “the heart of the New West”, remarks that it is less “new” than simply “rich”! His point being that all the new resource-based riches are just spent in conventional way (infrastructure, a bit of saving for rainy days, etc.) rather than being put to good use for the future generation. A couple of ideas that he puts forward: creation of a massive pan-Western pool of energy revenue to invest in making the region a global center of energy research; a single university system across the West, well-endowed, to become a world-renowned destination for students and researchers. Another one: top up the feds contribution to foreign aid so to achieve the 0.7% GDP target for the country…don’t know if the West would have that vision; afraid it would be asking too much of them!...
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/LAC.20080607.COESSAY07/TPStory/

Good piece as well from Margaret Wente – she is always good! – about the new economy, RIM over GM, and Mike Lazaridis’ vision of the future (Lazaridis is co-CEO of RIM and inventor of the Blackberry)
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20080607.wcowent07/BNStory/specialComment/


June 8

Early swim. Business breakfast; conference. Traditional reception hosted by CBC – new man in charge greeting, . Sun comes out; still cold but can go on the terrace, overlooking the upper Bow Valley surrounded by the Rockies: probably one of the most spectacular and grandiose views of all mountain resorts (…and must ornate the photo album of not a small number of Japanese!)


June 9

Copious breakfast at the Bow Valley Grill, after swim. Beating the touring “age d’or” crowd – they are also a bunch of early risers! – I am able to get a table by a window to enjoy the light and the sun piercing in, reading the paper… I see that I am missing Leonard Cohen in Toronto – last show tonight. Maybe can catch him in Montreal end of month… Walk around the hotel and the surrounding park and golf course – invigorating in the cold air of the morning, in spite of the sun that is finally shining.






More on the hotel from its official website:
Hotel History
The Fairmont Banff Springs is an internationally recognized symbol of Canadian hospitality. William Cornelius Van Horne, appointed general manager of Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) has been credited with recognizing the tourism potential of the Canadian west. Van Horne maintained tourism was an intricate ingredient in getting people to ride CPR and was conscious of the financial possibilities attached to the western mountain scenery. His philosophy reflected this awareness, 'Since we can't export the scenery,' he said, ' we'll have to import the tourists.' To enhance traffic on the CPR, Van Horne envisioned a succession of lavish resort hotels along the railway line through the Rocky and Selkirk Mountains. In 1886, CPR began developing three hotels to reflect Van Horne's idea of luxurious accommodations. The Mount Stephen House at Field, the Fraser Canyon Hotel at the North Bend and the Glacier House at Rogers Pass, all located in beautiful British Colombia, were created to imitate Swiss chalets and quickly grew in popularity. However, these projects were merely the beginning of Van Horne's vision and during the construction of the three modest hotels, Van Horne commissioned blueprints for a impressive hotel to be built at the convergence of the Bow and Spray Rivers in the recently established Rocky Mountain Park. Van Horne hired Bruce Price of New York, one of the leading architects of the time. Price's buildings displayed important characteristics of Late Victorian architecture and the visually clean, striking and exciting style became so significant throughout the early 1900's that it became the focal point of Canadian architecture until the beginning of the second world war. His work was so influential that the château style was the only acceptable architectural method for government structures at the time. With Price heading the project, construction of the Banff Springs Hotel began in the spring of 1887 and the hotel publicly opened on June 1, 1888.By the start of the twentieth century, the Banff Springs Hotel had developed into one of the top three mountain getaways in North America and Van Horne's vision had been realized, the scenery had been undeniably capitalized. To help adapt to the rise of international clientele, the CPR began a program of enhancement and expansion that ran from 1900 to 1928, the year the current hotel was finished. The program was divided into two periods: 1900 to 1910, saw all adjustments to the hotel pertaining to the original structure, and 1910 to 1928 where all changes were aimed at the completion of a 'new' hotel. Disaster struck in 1926 when the original wooden hotel burnt down, and was rebuilt larger and in its present appearance commencing in 1928. Within the 28-year period, the hotel rarely saw a year without some form of addition or improvement.Throughout the 1920's and 30's the hotel was able to combine day-to-day hotel life with the concept of luxurious hotel living. The depression played a part in the 'golden era' as an unsure future forced people to examine the present and their reasoning lead them to live as fully as possible in an immediate sense. The hotel managed well in maintaining its ambiance of sophisticated respectability. It was a time of stylish attire, tasteful entertainment, and refined relations. The 1930's were also a high time for promotion and the hotel saw a growth in members of high society, including heads of states and actors visiting the hotel for photo opportunities in order to promote the persona or place needing exposure. The likes of Helen Keller, King George VI and Queen Elizabeth visited the hotel and Benny Goodman was influential in Banff obtaining a landing strip, as he wanted to stay at the hotel but could only do so if there was an area to land his plane. Stanley Thompson, a world recognized golf course designer was selected to construct the world's greatest mountain golf course.By 1940 the effect of World War II had reached the hotel. War meant monetary and travel restrictions of North American vacationers and European investment was completely lost. By 1942, the hotel had closed its doors and with it the greatest era in the hotel's rich history. It wasn't until 1945 when the hotel re-opened.Through the 1950's and 60's the hotel struggled to reclaim the success it had before the war. The hotel went through a significant change, adapting to the economics of the time and catering to clientele involved in train tours. The Second World War and the consequent economic boom resulted in Canadians having more financial freedom. Transportation, convenience and availability to monetary funds jointly changed the whole perspective of the hotel. While still attracting traditional guests from the past, the Banff Springs Hotel found a high percentage of its revenue resulted from short-stay tour-scheduled guests. By the mid-60's, the hotel was predominantly providing service to conferences, bus excursions and families with automobiles.By the 1970's the hotel had reached a pivotal point, for the first time the Banff Springs Hotel would remain open for the winter season and the hotel would move away from its seasonal past to becoming a resort destination open all year. Targeted marketing campaigns were thrust into foreign markets, especially Japan. The hotel changed itself in order to increase its volume market, focusing more on tours as opposed to independent guests. The 1980's brought expansion and renovation back to the hotel. Growing well over 800 rooms, the hotel entered a phase of renovation and renewal. Beginning in 1985, the hotel entered into a two-phased project that would see onsite staff housing completed in 1986 and newly structured Manor wing incorporating 245 new guest rooms, which was finished in 1987. The developed Manor wing was opened to help accommodate the expected overflow of visitors to the region stemming from the 1988 Winter Olympics hosted by Calgary. At the same time, the hotel added nine extra playing holes to its internationally renowned Stanley Thompson golf course.The 1990's welcomed the addition of Ted Kissane, who arrived with a new vision of luxury for the 'Castle in the Rockies.' The year 1991 saw the hotel once again show its adaptability by opening The Banff Springs Conference Center. The state of the art center was completed at a cost of 25 million dollars and provided the hotel with an additional avenue of revenue. The following year, The Banff Springs Hotel was declared a national historic site by the government of Canada. In 1995, the hotel opens the 12-million dollar, state-of-the art luxury 'Solace' spa. 1997 saw the hotel modernize once again, renovating and converting the Manor Wing, scaling down the room count from 848 to 770. The same year, four and a half million dollars was spent to overhaul the golf course and in 1999, 75-million dollars in restoration and expansion of the hotel to reposition Banff Springs as one of the worlds leading hotels.Today The Fairmont Banff Springs continues to deliver the service and excellence expected while still exhibiting the growth and adaptability that has been so common in the history of the hotel. Providing guests and visitors with an unparalleled attention to quality of service, the hotel meets the demands of sightseer and causal tourist, to business visitors and prominent members of society.

vendredi 6 juin 2008

Roma I















Le 31 mai

Première visite à Rome depuis belle leurette. Çà remonte à 1994, en septembre je crois. Circulation particulièrement fluide à l’arrivée aujourd’hui – le chauffeur m’explique : c’est congé national lundi, alors les romains ont fui la ville pour le long week-end. Les romains, peut-être, mais le reste de l’Italie a envahi Rome, du moins à en juger par les masses qui encombrent les trottoirs du cœur de la ville (à partir des « Spanish steps » jusqu’au monument de Victor Emmanuel II le long de la via del Corso, c’est côte à côte !) Descendu à l’Intercontinental, via Sistina., tout près de la place d’Espagne. Repérage des lieux de rencontres de la semaine; pas très loin, d’abord Plazza di Montecitorio, ensuite la bibliothèque Burcardo, sur la via del Sudario, au sud de la Piazza Navona. Remontons vers l’Intercontinental pour aller prendre un verre en fin d’après-midi à la Terrazza de l’hôtel Eden tout près: une belle suggestion qui m'avait été faite - vue superbe surplombant tout Rome. Diner tout simple mais copieux à un restaurant près de l’hôtel, l’alla Rampa (http://www.allarampa.it/), suivi d’un dessert dans un des ces cafés très achalandés de la Via Veneto.


Dimanche, le 1 juin.

Promenade matinale sous le soleil dans la Villa Borghèse, immense domaine tout juste derrière l’hôtel dont le développement remonte au début du XVIIe, du temps du pape Paul V Borghèse. N’est le temps de m’aventurer que dans les contreforts du domaine (où se trouve la Casa del Cinema), sans aller jusqu’à la Galleria Borghèse qui est le centre d’attraction de la villa (on parle d’un domaine ici, et non pas simplement d’un édifice). Y retournerai peut-être en semaine puisqu’il s’y trouve un gym recommandé par l’hôtel. Sortie par la porte Pinciana, partie des murailles d’Aurélius et qui donne sur la via Veneto, lieu emblématique des années dorées de la Dolce Vita et du cinéma des années 50`s. Après le petit déjeuner dans la cour intérieure de l’Intercontinental – fort agréable d’ailleurs – promenade et visites avec André et Sylvia dans le Rome « romain », c'est-à-dire le Foro Romano, le Colloseo et la colline du Palatin. Exposition sur les « victoires romaines » dans le Colisée, une série de bas-reliefs et autres sculptures qui dépeignent entre autres les triomphes que l’on faisait aux généraux vainqueurs de retour dans la capitale, et où l’on retrouve cette citation remarquable que je reprends ici:
« (The Romans) great robbers of the world, after all the lands have been diminished but their devastation are exploiting the sea, greedy if the enemy is rich, arrogant if he is poor. They cannot get enough either from the West or the East; they alone desire to possess with equal madness the richness and the misery of nations. Under the false name of empire they pass robbery, murder and pillage: and when they have achieved desolation, they call it peace”
Extrait de Agricola, une biographie de son beau-père par Tacitus, lui-même Sénateur au premier siècle après JC, citant les paroles d’un leader britannique, du nom de Galgacus, s’objectant à l’invasion romaine.
Un groupe d’américains derrière nous de commenter que c’est une citation qui pourrait bien s’appliquer à eux également, sous le leadership de George W. Bush!!! Un peu poussé, mais il y a là des éléments de vérité…

Drinks at Le Grand Hotel, the St-Regis Grand now, where I stayed last time I was here in 1994. I remember a great dinner we had here, the same menu that Escoffier had prepared for the inauguration dinner of the hotel, replicated then as a celebration for its hundred-year anniversary (the hotel was founded by César Ritz). It’s been spiff up quite a bit since the St-Regis has taken it under management.

Roma II










Monday, June 2

Meetings all day, followed by a dinner offered by our Italian hosts – the Italian Society of Authors and Publishers (SIAE) – on the rooftop on the Raphael Hotel – La Terrazza Bramante – near Piazza Navona (http://www.raphaelhotel.com/) . Great view again – it looks like each hotel has a rooftop terrace in Rome, and for a good reason! Very elegant food, prepared by Chef Jean-François Daridon, a Breton who came out to say hello.

We also had our “Roman moment” in the morning when the concierge picked a verbal fight with a taxi driver who was pretending he could not take us where our meeting was taking place, on the account that the streets were closed because of the National Day parade, Everything was there: the gesticulations, the pleadings for understanding, the shouting, that all too telling gesture of the arm, etc.. Could not understand a word but what a spectacle!


Tuesday, June 3

More meetings all day. Lunch at Ciampini with the Germans, just beyond the top of the Spanish Steps. A few purchases on my way back to the hotel: hard to resist some of what’s on offering and the prices (that is not to say that Rome is cheap, especially with the Euro at $Can 1.63, but you just don’t let yourself tempted by what you can’t afford!)

Dinner at the Trattoria Tritone (http://www.trattoriatritone.com/), with Sylvia and André, a recommendation from the concierge, not too far from the hotel. Outside on the front terrace, complete with the visit of an itinerant singer, he and his accompanying guitarist, who was all too happy to go beyond the customary repertoire (Volare! Arrivederci Roma!) when I asked him to sing for us E Lucevan le Stelle, the better known aria from La Tosca. To add to the local character of the place, started with a bottle of Frascati, a very fresh, almost pétillant, white wine that the Romans consider as theirs (it comes from the neighboring regions).

Roma III















Mercredi, le 4 juin

De retour à la Villa Borghèse en matinée – quelques heures libres avant le déjeuner d’affaires (La Rosetta http://www.larosetta.com/eng_index.php). D’abord au Roman Sport Center (http://www.romansportcenter.com/eng/english.htm); un immense gym sous-terrain. Piscine de 25 mètres. Ensoleillé, propice à la promenade; pousse jusqu’à la Galleria, le musée (http://www.galleriaborghese.it/). Extraordinaire. Redécouvre Le Bernin (Bernini); ses magnifiques sculptures : le rapt de Proserpine, en plein centre de la magnifique salle des Empereurs, Apollon et Daphné, David ; jamais aura-t-on capté autant de mouvement dans une création qui se veut par définition immobile ! Et puis la lascive Pauline Borghèse, la sœur de Napoléon, tout le long étendue, grandeur nature, presque nue, sur son matelas de marbre blanc, une œuvre de Canova ; on peut comprendre que son mari en fut scandalisé, suffisamment pour la cacher (la sculpture) et puis éventuellement la divorcer (Pauline)… !

Le sommet sur la crise alimentaire, organisé sous l’égide de la FAO, se tient tout prés de notre lieu de rencontre, en plein cœur de Rome. 4800 délégués venus de partout, chefs d’état (incluant les parias d’usage comme Mugabe et d’autres), le secrétaire général des Nations Unies, etc. – Rome vit au son des sirènes de voitures et du bruit des hélicoptères assurant soit disant la sécurité. Près d’un milliard d’humains dont l’existence est constamment mise en péril par la pénurie de nourriture à des prix abordables. Je dois dire qu’à en juger par la mine et la taille de certains délégués – on remarque plus facilement les africains – aucuns de ceux qui participent à cette conférence ne font face à un danger immédiat de famine ! Les opinions se partagent, comme à l’habitude, sur le succès ou l’échec du Sommet…

Diner au Osteria St-Ana, petit restaurant simple et honnête, comme on en retrouve des centaines, sinon des milliers à Rome. Sauf qu’il nous avait été recommandé par des célébrités Holliwoodiennes, connaissances d’associés professionnels en notre compagnie, et qui passe à leurs yeux comme incontournable – je prends toujours avec un grain de sel, et avec raison, les recommandations de restaurants qui me viennent de nos amis du sud immédiat...


Jeudi, le 5 juin,

Départ tôt le matin, pour Banff, via Francfort et Calgary, pour la conférence annuelle du NextMedia…12 heures de vol, sans compter l'escale, puis 2 heures de voiture...on aura un peu les traits tendus...