samedi 1 mars 2008

Kuala Lumpur, 10 years on…







Kuala Lumpur, 10 years on…

February 29, 2008

Back in town for a week of meetings. More than 10 years since we left, having lived here for a couple of years in mid-nineties. Left me indifferent. Confirmed my long-held feeling towards that city which I never missed…
Has it changed? Not much, except perhaps for some of the projects that had been abandoned mid-course when the Asian financial crisis hit in 1997. The elevated monorail is there, overshadowing Jalan Sultan Ismail. The sidewalks along Jalan Ceylon where we lived still have “dalles” missing…



Had a couple of dinners in new restaurant area, called the Asian Heritage Row – at Mezza Notte and Bar Savanh/Cochine (http://www.asianheritagerow.com/establishments.asp) Looking for the Hilton, the first foreign hotel which I visited back in 1980; could not find it until I realized that I was staying in it, under its new management and refurbished, the Crown Plaza…funny!

Took colleagues to Carcosa Seri Negara for dinner (the Dining Room, French cuisine). Former residence of British rulers and envoys. Returned to Malaysian government in the 80’s. Magnificent surroundings in park-like, hilltop, secluded area. (See official site for pictures http://www.ghmhotels.com/) Used to go there for lunch on Sundays, or tea. Brought you back to the old colonial days! The queen stayed there, late ‘80’s, during one of the Commonwealth Head of Government meetings – they will show you the room; actually you can stay in that room!

Drinks (read orange juice!) with Ching Ching, Cynthia’s old friend, longtime columnist in local press (“Stories my mother told me” I think). C wrote preface to her book. Troubled life; troubled marriage. Very courageous; always fighting the good cause, this time, that of Malaysian single mothers and their fight for economic survival – ended up bringing back to C several baskets they manufacture out of recycled products!...

In the middle of a national electoral campaign. Nothing has changed there, except that Mahathir has been replaced by Badawi, his anointed successor which he has since repudiated. Anwar is also out of jail, back on the scene but not a candidate as the ban on his running does not expire until April! Never liked the local politics. Mahathir, longtime leader, never as good as when sparring with Lee Kwan Yew; Anwar, too smart for his own good – ended up in jail on trumped charges of sodomy with his driver! Badawi, as exciting as a door nub! I hate the local press – always had; it’s in the pocket of the government for one thing, and I don’t like the papers’ presentation. It is a given that UMNO and its Barisan Nasional coalition will win again with its usual “2/3” majority which allows it to amend the constitution whenever it fits its interests. Although one can never be sure; changes sometimes occur when the least expected. And I get the sense that the traditional economic and race-proactive policies (the “bumiputra advantage”) have less hold on people. Stronger Islam identification current, creating a distance vis-à-vis the pluralistic, non-confessional approach of UMNO. There is also the Anwar factor. (Post Scriptum March 8 election results: Surprise! This time the BN did not get the usual “2/3”, for the first time since its creation in the 70’s. They lost also in 5 out 13 simultaneous state-contests. Major blow!)

Not missing the place…never had.

P.S, dropped by the pool at the old club, the Royal Selangor Golf Club, to see if any of the pool gang still haunting the place –sure enough, ran into TK Tan, former stockbroker; had a beer (actually a few!) together; reminiscences about old gang, his hard-drinking father, now deceased; dropped me back at the hotel.