Vacationing in Prince Edward County. 6 days, 2 with Cynthia. Unique. Almost an island, right off the mainland, giving on one of the Great Lakes, Lake Ontario. Some 150 kilometres east of Toronto. The Saint-Lawrence River starts a few kilometres upstream (actually 28 nautical miles we're told!), about where Kingston is. One of the earliest settlements in Ontario. Known as Loyalist country, peopled by those who left the American colonies, faithful to the British Crown, after their independence, end of the 18th century. Second wave of inhabitants came after the Second WW: farmers from the Netherlands in search of a new life in a new adopted land. Also, over the last twenty or thirty years, the "refuge" of those who have had enough of the city life (the case of our B&B owners and our sailing tour operators, all “refugees” who escaped Toronto in the 70s and 80s!) and now “terre de prédilection” for newly retirees.
Known for its agriculture; rich soil; "the food basket of Toronto". Family farms that have now regain popularity for their organic practices. Started with wheat in 19th century, then barley, and dairy and canning crops; lots of butter and cheese plants, as well as canning operations, virtually all gone now. Agricultural revival though going on, supported by all sorts of local initiatives, promoting local food produces – check www.harvestin.ca. Most intriguing is the Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Company, brand new – hi-tech mixed with recipes and methods from immemorial times – goat and sheep milk cheese factory (www.fifthtown.ca) – Had some of their Cape Vessey (hard), and Operetta and Lost Lake (soft)for lunch later on in the week. One year plus in operations. The “greenest” dairy that you could ever find – you should read their “green dairy self-guided tour”! Built according to worldwide “Platinum LEED” (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) standards, it has a wind turbine and solar panels on site, generating mind you less than 10% of their energy needs (but it’s better than anywhere else!); its goat and sheep milk supplier farms, all locals, must adhere to some green plan; construction materials all according to LEED standards; water efficiency and waste management conscious; ages its cheeses in underground caves to save on power; etc. Quite impressive!
Wine country since the 80s – the literature talks of some 20 wineries now (I could only count 14!), up from 3 in the beginnings. With some 700 acres of vines, it is the second largest viticulture area of Ontario (after the renowned Niagara-on-the-Lake region). Has its own appellation: VQA Prince Edward County. Good variety of soils: from thick gravelly to clay soils; plus limestone, the secret to cool-climate viticulture, I am told. Focussed on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay varieties; can also find some Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Gris. Something unique that I had never encountered before: because the winters are colder than in the Niagara region, and in spite of the proximity of Lake Ontario, they bury their grapevines every fall – must be awfully labour-intensive! Have a yearly festival of county wines early in the season to taste their new spring releases (Victoria Day weekend); best way to experience their wines – we should check it out next year. (www.thecountywines.ca). Another reference site: http://www.winesofcanada.com/ontario_pec.html `
Becoming or is very much a tourist destination. Population of the county triples in the summer, from 20,000 to 60,000. They call it Ontario’s Riviera – primarily I suppose for the beaches at the provincial park – Sandbanks with sand dunes as high as 80 metres, “the largest freshwater sand dune system in the world”! The geography of the county lends itself to it as well – more than 800 kilometres of shoreline, full of bays and peninsulas. Lots of chalets – more like second, all-year around homes – you get to see when you paddle along the shore. The true Canadian summer-holiday dream: chalet by the water, enjoying the sun and the cool breeze by the lake or the river – for most sitting on the deck, barbecuing or sipping a beer or wine, looking at the sun going down. July or August at its best (September if you are lucky but fall sometimes comes very early!)
Staying at a great B&B, “Bed & Beyond” (http://www.bbcanada.com/10833.html) at one of the extremities of the county, giving on the Adolphus Reach. Barb and Don are gems of hosts. New to the business, the spacious house is no more than two years old. Great rooms – ours with a full view of the water – giving on a small marina they operate (first picture above). I’d say about 20-25 kilometres further up from Picton, the major town in the county. The road at the back of the B&B provides a great running track – crushed stone on a layer of tar, 2.5km to the end of the peninsula, and return, a perfect 5km!
Sailed while Cynthia is with me. Peter and Paulette Jamieson operate a sailing cruise, along with their B&B (Bayside B&B - http://www.bbcanada.com/baysidebb). Perfect weather – sunny, cool, with a 15-knot wind. Could not have asked for better; and very lucky at that considering the unsettled weather so far this summer. Boarded their 32 footer at Waupoos Marina, with both of them. Peter is a pro – almost born sailor, he has crossed the Atlantic – very meticulous. Born in Toronto, he saw the light early on and moved here in the 80’s. Paulette has learned the trade years ago with Peter. We feel we are in good hands! Sailed off Smiths Bay, going by Waupoos Island, where flocks of sheep are kept grazing – we ran into a whole flock of them on our way to the marina crossing the road, having been brought ashore on a large barge from the island; they had just been sheered. Spent most of the time cruising in the large Prince Edward Bay, just off Lake Ontario. Moored at Little Bluff for lunch and a dip in the water – cool but so refreshing. Spent the rest of the afternoon getting back slowly to the marina. Delightful!
Great weather all week actually. Spent leisurely, reading, writing, some running and swimming. We should be back, if only for wine (in the spring) or food (in the fall) tasting.
August 7, 2009
