A gorgeous day
and weekend!
Off to see Notre Dame of Chartres. As one gets to
Chartres, the cathedral is seen from far
away and it is unmistakable because of its two spears different from one
another:
a unique piece! Remained in roughly the same state as it was when it
was built, early 13th century, very little has changed since then…
At the end of
the day, went to the chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte,
half hour away from Fontainebleau, own privately - like some 20,000 other
monuments throughout France - to witness
“les chandelles”, an event held once a week when the castle and its garden (designed
by Le Nôtre, the guy who is credited with the creation of the garden “à la
française” – the castle design has been conceived by Louis le Vau; Charles Le Brun
is responsible for the interior decoration) are illuminated by some 2000
candles dispersed throughout. The whole thing is capped out by fireworks; France
at its “ancient regime” best! History has it that its owner, the
Superintendant of finances of the day,
Nicolas Fouquet, ended his days in prison for being too ostentatious with his
wealth, to the taste of an envious Lois XIV, for whom Fouquet offered a
sumptuous party. He died in jail, some 19 years later! There is a lesson there!
The
science and practices of architecture allowed then – an
innovation , thanks to buttresses – large stained glass panels
(magnificent Blue Virgin window; one of the largest rosasses in the world), the
majority of them going back to the 12th or 13th century
indeed! They say it is the best example of gothic art –built on the whole in a
record time of some 30 years! And beautiful spears: uneven, dating from
different times (original, 13th century to the South; 16th
century, after the original was destroyed by fire, to the North!) Lit up a
candle thinking of my mother! Subjected to a major renovation project started
out in 2008 and still going on for several years, cleaning it up from aged
deposits – quite a revelation!
Drove there
(about 100 km from Fonty) and had magnificent lunch nearby, at the “Esprit Gourmand” (sur la “rue du
Cheval Blanc”, one small street off the cathedral)! Known as one of the better
kitchens of Chartres, it did not disappoint! A kir au châtaigne to start with,
then followed with an amazing appetizer: a poached egg on a nest of leeks with
ham and lardons. Plus main courses of meat, well washed down with a lighter local
red; frankly delicious! Sitting in the small garden; service at the tables
assisted by woman co-owner. To repeat eventually!
At the end of
the day, went to the chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte,
half hour away from Fontainebleau, own privately - like some 20,000 other
monuments throughout France - to witness
“les chandelles”, an event held once a week when the castle and its garden (designed
by Le Nôtre, the guy who is credited with the creation of the garden “à la
française” – the castle design has been conceived by Louis le Vau; Charles Le Brun
is responsible for the interior decoration) are illuminated by some 2000
candles dispersed throughout. The whole thing is capped out by fireworks; France
at its “ancient regime” best! History has it that its owner, the
Superintendant of finances of the day,
Nicolas Fouquet, ended his days in prison for being too ostentatious with his
wealth, to the taste of an envious Lois XIV, for whom Fouquet offered a
sumptuous party. He died in jail, some 19 years later! There is a lesson there!
