An 8-day tropical stint...
Cancun, Mexico, November 1, 2008.
Here for 3 or 4 days for one of the annual CISAC committee meetings. At the invitation of the Mexican Society - I guess people at the Society figured that guests from the North would prefer Cancun to Mexico City at this time of the year...
Cancun, a Mexican quick fix for tourists! Gorgeous set up, with a string of 5 star resorts off a road built on this narrow band of land detached from terra firma, probably originally a big sand dune, trapping a large swap of what seems to be stagnant waters in between (In certain places along that band, it looks more like the “Las Vegas strip on the sea”!) Beaches, blue water, soft pure sand, a great place for honeymooners, retirees, and spoiled young families. A great place it would appear also for partying twentysomethings, taking a break from school or work... You don’t see much of Mexico though. You are a 30-minute (US$58!) swift taxi ride away from the international airport. Then you are hushed into one of these international standard luxury hotels – there must be at least 30 of those – (the Presidente Intercontinental in this case), with a stunning view over the ocean, and with the usual display of aqua-blue swimming pools, outdoor thatch-roof restaurants and palm trees scattered on the facing beach. Great, but if it was not for the distinctly Mexican-looking staff, you could think you are on any big resorts on the same latitude in Asia, or somewhere else in Latin America. Enjoyed nonetheless the day walking along the beach, and stocking some vitamin D for the coming winter in Canada...
I resolved, for my day-off tomorrow, that I will see something more of the country, and organized (rented a car) to go to visit some of the Maya archaeological sites in the region.
November 2
Drove to the Maya temples. Ek Balam first. A minor temple by its size but a “live” one, being still excavated and renovated. See http://www.azureva.com/mexique/magazine/mexique-bon-plan-ek-balam.php3). Ek Balam is about an hour and a half from Cancun, off the 180 freeway, some 25 km north of Valladolid. Still under excavation. Very quiet...until a convention group of some 250 people arrived, and turning the place into a bit of a zoo, older people insisting to climb the steep stairway to the top of the pyramid, and struggling to come down. Interesting to hear the incantations of some of them, once at the top, chanting in unison, their eyes closed and their arm extended forward, in a Buddhist-like fashion.
November 2
Drove to the Maya temples. Ek Balam first. A minor temple by its size but a “live” one, being still excavated and renovated. See http://www.azureva.com/mexique/magazine/mexique-bon-plan-ek-balam.php3). Ek Balam is about an hour and a half from Cancun, off the 180 freeway, some 25 km north of Valladolid. Still under excavation. Very quiet...until a convention group of some 250 people arrived, and turning the place into a bit of a zoo, older people insisting to climb the steep stairway to the top of the pyramid, and struggling to come down. Interesting to hear the incantations of some of them, once at the top, chanting in unison, their eyes closed and their arm extended forward, in a Buddhist-like fashion.
Had lunch in the nearby village of Ek Balam Pueblo. Thought to go first at what was described in what I read as an eco-tourist place that served excellent local dishes, called Genesis Retreat http://www.genesisretreat.com/; however couldn’t quite find it, or if it was the eco-tourist resort I saw – which appeared deserted – it was best that I had my lunch somewhere else! Ended up at an Italian restaurant – the Dolce Mente http://www.dolcementeekbalam.com/ekbalam_inglese/comollegar_ing.htm – a surprising find in this little village of essentially some 20 to 30 huts around a large square. Actually, the Dolce Mente is a little resort, catering to those visiting or working at the ruins site, and ran by a “colony” of Italians, men and women, who came into this place some 15 years ago. Had a delicious spinach and ricotta cannelloni, which I hurried them to serve...as they were expecting a group of some 250 conventioneers later on!!!
Then drove to Chichen Itza, another half hour further the 180. This is no doubt the most visited temple in the Yucatan peninsula and it gives you on a grandiose scale the measure of the Maya culture, see photos and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chichen_Itza. http://www.insecula.com/salle/MS02825.htm
This day tour gave me a glimpse of the Mesoamerican civilization which prevailed during some 4000 years over the land of modern Mexico and adjacent countries on the isthmus – from 2500 BC to 1521 AD, when the Spaniards arrived and changed so brutally the course of history for the indigenous populations. When you see Chichen Itza, which is one of some 30 major archaeological sites on this land and not the biggest one, you start to realize and appreciate the advancement these populations had achieved in all aspects of life, the richness and diversity of their culture, and what has been lost to the current world.
This day tour gave me a glimpse of the Mesoamerican civilization which prevailed during some 4000 years over the land of modern Mexico and adjacent countries on the isthmus – from 2500 BC to 1521 AD, when the Spaniards arrived and changed so brutally the course of history for the indigenous populations. When you see Chichen Itza, which is one of some 30 major archaeological sites on this land and not the biggest one, you start to realize and appreciate the advancement these populations had achieved in all aspects of life, the richness and diversity of their culture, and what has been lost to the current world.
Drove back to Cancun and arrived in town at night where direction signs where far and few in-between, with no clear indication how to get back to the “Zona Hotelera”...I had to struggle a bit...
November 4
Just watched Obama’s accepting speech. It will make history (“Yes we can”). The emotion of people; the grave, sombre look on his face, already assuming the weight of office, the burden of the task ahead. This was a presidential speech, not a rally, triumphalist, utterance. The world is looking forward... It also reminded me of another presidential election that is of Reagan on his first term in 1980 that was also bearing the promise and prospects of major changes in American policies but of a different kind. I was then in Pokhara, Nepal, straying if I recall at the Fishtail-Lodge hotel (http://www.fishtail-lodge.com/) , on the lake, there with my 5 year-old son, taking a break from diplomatic life in Beijing...
November 6,
Flew from Cancun to Miami, for another all-day meeting there with other music rights societies’ colleagues, dealing with strategic issues that confront us. Staying at the Gansevoort South, On Collins Ave, South Beach, giving on the ocean http://www.gansevoortsouth.com/. Just open 8 months ago, a converted apartment complex, as part of a smart chain – they have another one in New-York City – very swank and trendy, with a wonderful rooftop patio – and a 37 meter-long pool which I made good use of! – which turns into a very swinging bar as soon as dusk settles...a bit too noisy to my taste though... A pleasant 80 degrees, and a nice breeze. Great jugging on the wooden boardwalk that runs along the beach; accessible from the hotel. Had a couple of dinners at seafood restaurants along Ocean Drive – “A Fish Called Avalon” (http://www.afishcalledavalon.com/) and “Quinn’s “ (http://www.quinnsmiami.com/home.htm ). Highly recommendable.
America basking in Obama’s historical election...
November 8. Returned to Toronto (overcast, light rain, 7 degrees Centigrade...)
