Had dinner as well at Suri’s other restaurant, Bellevue – named because of the view on the Vltava and the Castle; I had the roasted Pikeperch, paired with a local sauvignon blanc. (http://www.bellevuerestaurant.cz/cs/bellevuerestaurant/)
On the other side of the river, the very attractive and “fréquenté” Kampa Park, right on the water, at the foot of the Charles Bridge; I chose to host a dinner here. It belongs to the Kampa Group, the other major catering group in Prague, competing with the Zatisi Group. (http://www.kampagroup.com/en/index.php)
There is apparently no better place in Prague for breakfast than the Café Savoy (I went twice!), in the Mala Strana neighborhood, which I walked to, crossing the famed Charles Bridge, just on the other side of the Vltava river that crosses the city (a bit like the Danube separates Buda from Pest). Is it because of the food or the setting? I’d say for both! I am giving the choice of a copious local Bohemian breakfast (oeuf à la coque; variety of bread, Prague ham and cheese, and where I substitute a café au lait for the hot chocolate) in an old-style European café décor, with an incredible neo-Renaissance ceiling, hidden to survive during the world wars and the communist regime, lots of light coming through these large windows that give on a leafy square.
La Finestra, in Stare Mesto, is no doubt one of the better Italian restaurants in town. Michelin Star Chef Lucio Pompili is in charge. Head chef is Riccardo Lucque, who also operates Aromi, his flag ship restaurant, further out in the Zizkov or Vinohradi district. I had a delicious special-of-the-day porcini tagliatelle for lunch, with a suggested Soave.
Francouzska Restaurace (the French Restaurant) is something else! The decor is exceptional. Located in the Municipal House, built at the beginning of the 20th century to showcase what Czech architecture had the best to offer then, it’s an “Art Nouveau” delight! High ceiling, massive chandeliers with pendants, large windows, metal artwork, it has to be seen. There was live piano being played. And the food is up to it; I had the roasted fillet of sea bass, “with carrot-fennel foam, homemade ravioli and citrus beurre blanc sauce”, to quote the menu. The wine was local but I can’t tell what they were as I did not order them, but they were delicious (I could rely without hesitation on my French colleague to choose well...) Ideal after (or before) the opera! http://www.francouzskarestaurace.cz/
I was curious about the Grand Cafe Orient at the House of the Black Madonna, so I went for a coffee (and a baguette jambon fromage, as it was getting close to lunch – very fresh!) A special place; unique Czech contribution to the cubist movement – the architecture, but also the furnishings. I am told it was closed for many years, probably because the style went away, but I would think it has been the inspiration of many art déco places that were to come and be popular afterwards around the world.
Pravda. On fashionsable Parizka street, near my hotel. Hosted a close colleague for dinner, to compare notes and catch up. The name of the place reminds one of course of the famous soviet press agency, the „Truth“ – same meaning, if the word is also Czech. Great exterior building, very early 1900’s, very embellished. Too cold at this time of the day and year to sit on the terrace. They call the interior „neo-gothic“ – one learns everyday! My guest opted for the borsh and the goulash; could not be more regional! I went for the Svíčková too. I let him choose the wine – Italian though, a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
For my last dinner, having just returned from Berlin, wanted to try La Perle de Prague, on the top floors of Frank Gehry’s Rasin Building (which I also wanted to see), but I was told by the concierge that it had gone out of business. So went for nearby Barock, across the street from Pravda. Very swanky as it is advertised, but made the mistake to go for the daily special tuna – the chef, or whatever is in the kitchen, ruined it; worst I had ever!
A word about Czech wines. A discovery! Wine has been around here for at least 2 thousand years, but only recently I am told has it achieved standards that can compare to those wines from better known regions in the world (won medals at the San Francisco International Wine Competition...) The ones I had were mainly from Moravia, in the south of the country. Worth sampling!
