Two different époques though – the first one built in the fifth century BC, the second some 6 centuries later, probably in 1st century AD (the first one, it is to be understood, was rebuilt in the 3rd century BC in the present configuration, although I suspect it must have endured several alterations, especially under the Romans who wanted to use it as well as a stage for gladiator combats before they built their own amphitheater!
The Greek theater (Greco Teatro) is known to be one of the largest surviving of the kind – 138 meters in diameter! Well understood is the seating area, the auditorium ("cavea" in Latin), with the rows carved out of stone, going up along the slope of the hill – with some 60 rows, it could seat as much as 15,000 people we are told! As Cynthia pointed out though, much less understood are the arrangements on the stage for performances; lots of marks in the stone floor of the stage, but it does not tell much. As impressive as it may be, I get the sense also that we are getting only a very partial understanding of what it must have been or looked like in the antiquity- probably far more marble and color that have been dissipated with the years throughout history; different ages giving different importance to public theatre…The oddity on the ground is that building that sits at the top of the hill, at the back of the theater – we are explained that this is a medieval stone structure that has obviously been restored and that served as a watch tower in those days; I suppose it is also part of history, worth keeping…
We know that the great playwrights of the day, Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, among others, were played out at the theater – the first production we are told was a play about women: "Women of Aetna" by Aeschylus (unlikely a feminist-inspired work!) I read somewhere that the theater got used again in the 19th century when Greek theatre was back in favor, played in Italian I would think…
Interesting to note, theater in the antiquity was played early in the morning – we tend to forget that they depended on the sunlight- but why so early in the day!...
Proceeded to Noto, known as “the” Baroque city of Sicily, and for a very good reason: the 1693 quake destroyed the city totally, which actually was rebuilt somewhere else, closed by, at the time when Baroque style was prevailing. Quite spectacular though! When standing in front of the cathedral, all you can see are Baroque structures, palazzi and all!
Had to visit the local “teatro” – built in mid-19th century, the city had just become the capital of the province (Syracuse), it had to have its theater to serve its burgeoning aristocracy! Renovated after the Great War and abandoned again, it was restored in the 60s, and then some more. Great pictures – thanks to Cynthia. (As a P.S., saw a plaque commemorating the renovation of the sixties and mentioning the inspiration, Salvatore Adamo; thought of the singer as he was born in these parts, but no, it referred to the mayor of the day…I guess it is a common a name around Sicily!)
On va passer sous silence le lunch au “Il Barroco” à Noto – mediocre, and I am generous!
Footnote: on the way to Syracuse, stopped by an abandoned brick factory, near Sampieri, that would have burnt years ago. All is left is the stone structure, intact with its chimney; it is also near the sea – the whole thing is quite eerie! (Sarnari’s daughter, Barbara, knows the place well, as she lives (or used to live?) near the factory, and recalled how as a kid she used to play there – now totally unsafe as you feel like it is going to collapse at the smallest tremor…)
December 29, 2010
